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Then most Korean households turn their minds to gimjang. It's an all-day affair and requires the help of many hands. Housewives first check out prices in the markets and then make a plan to assemble the ingredients, gather sisters, sister-in-laws, aunts and even grandma. It is generally women's work but men folk, if they don't have the foresight to make themselves scarce, are recruited for heavy lifting.
There are many varieties of kimchi made with various vegetables including Korean radish, cucumbers, and cabbage. "Baechu," known as Chinese cabbage in the west, is the most common. Other ingredients include salt, garlic, scallions, leeks, shrimp and other fermented seafood. The most important ingredient is red hot pepper powder. This gives the final product its dark red color and fire in the mouth flavor. In addition, large plastic tubs, strainers, knives and storage containers are needed.
Once a day is chosen and everything assembled, everyone gets together early in the morning and the process begins. Under the strict direction of the eldest female relative, grandma, mom, or the oldest aunt, jobs are assigned and washing, chopping and rubbing is carried out on mountains of cabbage heads. Each head is individually washed, rubbed with salt and red pepper powder.
The thoroughness of salting and peppering determines the flavor and quality of the final product. It is well known that plenty of marital strife stems from a husband who can't help but compare his mom's kimchi to his wife's. For the sake of family harmony a daughter-in-law, whenever possible, should serve a long apprenticeship under her mother-in-law.
Each family has its preferred recipe. Some kimchi is more salty and some has a stronger garlic taste. Opinions run strong as to which is the correct flavor. It seems to be a common Korean belief that there is only one correct way to do anything. Once the correct way is established everyone accepts it and tries to do it that way. Since in many fields the absolute standard is not yet set, fields such as politics, religion and making kimchi are still fiercely debated. Therefore 'our' our kimchi is the best and all others are almost inedible.
After adding the other ingredients it has to be placed into containers for storage. Koreans believe that it is a scientific fact that Korean kimchi is one of the healthiest foods that you can eat. Every once in a while a new report comes out with a team of scientists detailing the health benefits of kimchi. Of course the scientists are always Korean. The health benefits cited are usually based on fermentation. Fermentation takes time and so the best kimchi is aged.
The storage method is important. In days gone by kimchi was stored in large earthenware jars. A loose lid is placed on top which apparently promotes air circulation and aids the fermentation process. The jars were then buried in the ground, natural refrigeration.
Today plastic containers are most often used and almost everyone has a kimchi refrigerator thanks to Samsung, LG and the rest. I wonder how this affects the taste. Koreans are proud of their kimchi and consider it the height of hospitality to give some of their kimchi to foreigners. Nowadays my fridge is full.
Michael P. Downey (mpdowney308@gmail.com) is an author and teacher living in South Korea. In his free time he is a human rights activist primarily working with refugees from North Korea. As a volunteer English teacher and speech coach (with Teach North Korean Refugees) he is endeavoring to give them a voice by assisting them in telling their stories.