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| Traffic on a stone bridge ― possibly Salgoji ― circa 1912. Robert Neff Collection |
By Robert Neff
In the past, bridges in Korea were not just a means of crossing rivers and streams but were also a means of good health. On the evening of the 15th day after the first full moon of the Lunar New Year, the night curfew was lifted and Seoul residents would flock to the city's bridges. People believed they would be protected from diseases ― particularly those that involved the legs ― if they crossed a bridge once for every year they had lived. And, if they managed to do this at 12 bridges, they would be guaranteed good luck throughout the year.
One early Western observer noted that the Korean word for bridge and leg was the same and that the bridge supports resembled a man's legs. He did, however, acknowledge that the superstition originated in China.
Walking the bridges became an extremely popular event. Normally segregated by social norms and the night curfew, men and women of all ages and classes were able to mingle on this one night as they walked back and forth along the bridges. Young unmarried men and women were able to steal glances ― those caught staring too long were probably chastised, but it was a small price to pay to see forbidden fruit.
Of course, at times, the more conservative members of society expressed outrage and some steps were taken to ensure social decorum. At some point, a bridge was set aside only for women. Even this was not enough. Some women took to walking the bridges on the 16th day ― thus protecting them from the lecherous gazes of the city's male population.
Naturally, when large numbers of people gather in a festive manner ― especially when large amounts of alcohol flow freely ― there will be disagreements and fights. As people jostled for position on the crowded bridges, there was, undoubtedly, pushing and shoving and a degree of profanity. Fights were an invariable part of the night.
Some yangban (Korean gentry), not willing to mix with the common rabble, took to walking the bridges on the 14th day ― presumably before the curfew. Their absence was probably welcomed by the common rabble.
Eventually, in 1791, the night curfew was lifted for three days, which allowed the people to visit bridges outside the city gates. Located outside the East Gate, Salgoji became one of the most popular places for bridge walking. One can imagine young Joseon dandies wearing their finest trying to catch the eyes of shy maidens as they walked the bridge for their health. The length of the stone bridge (said to be the longest in the area), rather than supernatural power, may have been the true source of their good health from bridge walking.
Just over a century later, modernization ― in the form of streetcars ― ended the night curfew and the superstitious tools (swings, seesaws and bridge walking) faded away into the past.
