Walking in the footsteps of the past: Bukhansan in 1884

Hyewhamun, where Ensign George C. Foulk began his journey to the Bukhan Mountain Fortress. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

On September 22, 1884, George C. Foulk, an American Navy ensign temporarily assigned to the American legation in Seoul, set out to visit Songdo (modern Gaeseong in North Korea). He was also invited to visit the mountain fortification of Bukhan ― just outside Seoul ― that, according to Foulk, no foreigner had ever been permitted to visit.

Foulk wasn't going alone. He rode in "a neat, closed chair with four coolie bearers, dressed in baggy white, with broad brimmed felt hats." He was also accompanied by two personal attendants and their chairs ― each carried by four bearers. There was also an accompanying Court officer "on horseback, dressed in two colors of flowing green, his horse led by a boy in white, with his thick black hair hanging down his back in a queue."

There was a baggage horse, its attendant, and then a servant for each of Foulk's personal attendants and one for the Court officer. According to Foulk, "this is a very small retinue indeed for an officer to have in travel."

A sedan chair carried by four coolies through the streets of Seoul. Robert Neff Collection

But it got even larger. At Hyewhamun (Northeast Gate) they were met by two other officials in their chairs (with four bearers) and two servants who would guide them to the fortress. There were now 31 in Foulk's "small" party.

In his report to the State Department, he described his party traveling along the city wall until they came to Sukjeongmun (North Gate) "which is the gate in the wall used only by the King in his escape from the city in times of danger; this communicates with the palace and is customarily kept closed."

In a letter to his parents, Foulk's description seems sparse and lacks detail ― merely stating "from here, we went north climbing over craggy peaks, and white sandy rock studded country" ― but in his report, it is filled with a wealth of information.

He describes them going up a narrow footpath to a rocky ridge that towered some 200 feet above the city. The Korean government preserved this path at a considerable cost as this was the route the king would take if he had to flee the capital. It was somewhat ingenious as the path could be easily destroyed after the king passed, thus thwarting his pursuers and causing them to negotiate the perilously steep rocky slope with unsteady footing.

The walls of Seoul, circa 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

The king would then follow a route "across a great basin walled across the western side and bounded in all other directions by sharp rock crested hills to a [sprawling?] range of mountains averaging 2,000 feet in height. Unbelievably there is no road across this basin and we only crossed it with the greatest difficulty. Nearing its north boundary, the lofty, rocky crest before us was seen to be strongly walled, though its rocky sides naturally formed an impassible barrier to any enemy. Ascending to the top of the crest we came to a massive granite arch closed with iron bound doors and guarded by the priest of a small Buddhist temple close by."

It was here that they stopped for a short lunch break ― it was, of course, Korean fare. While many Westerners shunned Korean food, Foulk probably ate it with a certain degree of enthusiasm and bravado.

Foulk's path to the fortress is not clear. Hyunuck Park's hasty map of two possible routes.

Samuel Hawley, the author of "Inside the Hermit Kingdom," observed "while Foulk could come across to fellow Westerners as occasionally prickly, he was always careful to make a good impression among the Koreans, particularly men of importance, and took pride in his ability to be agreeable and win them over."

Foulk may have been diplomatic in front of his superiors and peers but in his letters to his family he was often brutally truthful. "Buddhist temples," he wrote, "are far more used as hotels and resorts than as religious places."

Once lunch was completed, Foulk and his party made their way to the gate. In a rather unprecedented manner, in his report he wrote: "Passing through the gate I was amazed at the view before me."

What amazed him? We will see tomorrow.

My appreciation to Hyunuk Park, Senior Researcher, Cultural Heritage Team of Gyeonggi Cultural Foundation, for his invaluable assistance.