Walking in the footsteps of the past: Suwon 1884 (Part 1)

Paldal Gate in Suwon, circa 1900-1920.

By Robert Neff

Twice, between early October and November 1884, George C. Foulk, an American naval ensign attached to the American legation in Seoul, traveled to Suwon.

The first time was in an open chair carried by two Korean coolies ― or servants ― and the second was part of his larger exposition to explore the southern half of the Korean Peninsula.

The road between Seoul and Suwon appears to have been kept in good repair and the ever-critical Foulk apparently even complimented the scenery along his path:

“The last four miles of road before Suwon were lined with picturesque old pines and numerous memorial stones. At one place was a resting place and pleasure resort for the King by a small lotus pond.”

A lake near Suwon, circa 1900-1920.

He also noted that nearby was “a small lake celebrated for a delicious kind of fish” ― unfortunately he doesn't appear to have visited it.

Foulk was impressed with the productivity of the region and the business of its residents. The road was filled with packhorses carrying cotton flax, oxen carrying loads of rice and coolies and itinerant merchants carrying their goods. The farmers were equally busy: harvesting rice, threshing it and making mats from the straw.

He was equally impressed with the gates of Suwon and its fortress but the city itself lacked much of interest, for Foulk wrote very little about it.

“Along the main streets were a few shops, some apparently filled with Chinese goods, but all small and poor.”

A cattle market at Hwachon, Suwon, circa 1900-1920.

Again, he noted that the city produced coarse flax cloth in considerable quantity, along with persimmons, which were placed in large bags and carried to Seoul on packhorses and oxen.

Outside the south gate was a large collection of houses ― he estimated it almost the same size as the city within the walls ― where “the farmers assembled with grains, fruits and other products for sale to the citizens.”

He estimated the population of Suwon at 22,000 people ― about 12,000 within the walls and the rest living outside the south gate.

During that first visit in October, Foulk and his four chair bearers stayed the night in a cozy-looking hotel that proved to be cold and filthy. It was likely a long night for him. In the morning, Foulk would visit the magistrate of Suwon.

Working straw into mats, circa 1900-1920.

Paldal Gate in Suwon, circa 1900-1920.

A Korean market, circa 1910-1920.