alt
2012-07-19 18:41

600-year-old linen bras found in Austrian castle



A revolutionary discovery is rewriting the history of underwear: Some 600 years ago, women wore bras.

The University of Innsbruck said Wednesday that archeologists found four linen bras dating from the Middle Ages in an Austrian castle. Fashion experts describe the find as surprising because the bra had commonly been thought to be only little more than 100 years old as women abandoned the tight corset.

Instead, it appears the bra came first, followed by the corset, followed by the reinvented bra.

One specimen in particular "looks exactly like a (modern) brassiere," says Hilary Davidson, fashion curator for the London Museum. "These are amazing finds."

Although the linen garments were unearthed in 2008, they did not make news until now says Beatrix Nutz, the archaeologist responsible for the discovery.

Researching the items and carbon dating them to make sure they were genuine took some time. She delivered a lecture on them last year but the information stayed within academic circles until a recent article in the BBC History Magazine.

"We didn't believe it ourselves," she said in a telephone call from the Tyrolean city of Innsbruck. "From what we knew, there was no such thing as bra-like garments in the 15th century."

The university said the four bras were among more than 2,700 textile fragments ― some linen, others linen combined with cotton ― that were found intermixed with dirt, wood, straw and pieces of leather.

"Four linen textiles resemble modern-time bras" with distinct cups and one in particular looks like today's version, it said, with "two broad shoulder straps and a possible back strap, not preserved but indicated by partially torn edges of the cups onto which it was attached."

And the lingerie was not only functional.

The bras were intricately decorated with lace and other ornamentation, the statement said, suggesting they were also meant to please a suitor.

While paintings of the era show outerwear, they do not reveal what women wore beneath. Davidson, the fashion curator, described the finds as "kind of a missing link" in the history of women's underwear.

Women started experimenting with bra-like garments in the late 1800s and the first modern brassiere was patented in the early 19th century. It is thought to have been invented by New York socialite Mary Phelps Jacob, who was unhappy with the look of her gown over a stiff corset.

Also found at Lemberg Castle in Tyrol was a linen undergarment that looks very much like a pair of panties. But Nutz said it is men's underwear ― women did not wear anything under their flowing skirts back then.
"Underpants were considered a symbol of male dominance and power," she said.

Medieval drawings often show a man and a woman fighting for a pair of underpants in a symbolic battle to see who "wears the trousers" in the family. (AP)




관련 한글기사


600년 전 브라 오스트리아 성에서 발견돼…

인간의 속옷 역사에 길이 남을 만한 600여 년 전의 브래지어가 발견되었다.

인스브루크 대학은 고고학자들이 오스트리아의 한 성에서 중세 시대의 4개의 린넨 브래지어를 발견했다고 전했다. 패션전문가들은 여성들이 100여 년 전, 몸에 딱 맞는 코르셋을 벗어버리면서 브래지어를 사용했다고 생각했기 때문에 이 발견은 무척 놀라운 것이라고 말했다.

이 린넨 속옷들을 발견한 고고학자 비트릭스 너츠는 2008년에도 발굴했지만 진품인지 확인하는 데에 시간이 걸렸다고 밝혔다.

전화 인터뷰에서 너츠는 “우리 역시 그 사실을 믿지 않았다”며 “우리가 아는 바론 15세기에 브래지어같은 옷가지가 없었다”고 말했다.

런던 박물관 힐러리 데이비슨 패션 큐레이터는 발견된 4개 중 하나가 “현대 브래지어와 똑같이 생겼다”고 밝혔다.

실제로 발견된 브래지어는 지금의 속옷처럼 컵이 있고 그 중 하나는 어깨 끈까지 있었다. 또한 인스브루크 대학은 그 속옷들이 기능적인 면 뿐만 아니라 레이스와 다른 장식도 있는 등 섬세한 장식도 달려 있었다고 밝혔다.

데이비슨은 그 당시 그림이 여성의 겉옷만 묘사하기 때문에 이 같은 발견은 여성 속옷 역사의 “빠진 고리”를 채워준다고 말했다.


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