KoreaToday Fast Fashion’s Unpretty Life Cycle
Buy It, Wear It, Dump It: One-off Use Speeds Up Eco-Damage
By Jane Han
Staff Reporter
When the newest spring chiffon shirt costs less than a gourmet sandwich, there's a problem ― either the shirt is too cheap or the sandwich is too expensive.
Considering that some garments are offered for less than 10,000 won ($7.50), the dress is probably too cheap, way cheap. Or at least that's what eco-conscious observers claim, as they raise concerns over fast-fashion's throwaway prices that lead to reckless consumption and disposal.
With global fast fashion labels such as H&M, Zara, Mango, UNIQLO and Forever21 bringing catwalk styles at high street prices, shoppers no longer have to stress about buying or not. In fact, the no-frills shopping experience has become a new stress-buster, even for the stingy, money-conscious crowd.
``With 50,000 won, I can easily snap up two to three outfits,'' said Kim Eun-jung, a 26-year-old salaried worker, who habitually stops by Forever21 after work.
The U.S.-based clothing retailer launched its first store in Seoul last year, becoming one of the first overseas fast-fashion labels to enter the domestic market. Here, shirts cost as little as 4,500 won, while other must-have items including denims start at 15,000 won.
Another frequent shopper at Forever21, Park Jin-ah, 25, says she often buys an outfit for one particular occasion, but doesn't wear it again.
``I don't know what it is, but I don't find myself wearing the same look again,'' she said, adding that she doesn't mind because it didn't cost her much anyway.
The change of heart isn't something that Park is dealing with alone, as many other fast-fashion lovers also find themselves losing interest in their new purchases just have their first wear.
According to a recent survey done by the Korea Women's Environmental Network, 70 percent of 500 male and female respondents said that they don't wear more than half the clothes they bought one year ago again.
So where do these garments end up? The trash, most likely, says Lee Bo-eun, the director of the environmental group.
``Consumers are simply buying way more than they actually need and cheap prices are fanning thoughtless consumption,'' she said, adding fashion labels used to design, manufacture and produce new styles about four to eight times a year, but the cycle has spiked up to 18 times a year.
``The turn around of trends is happening at a crazy speed,'' said Lee, ``and consumers are not able to keep up with that because it doesn't cost much to do so.''
What's Wrong With Fast?
Fashionistas who like to be on top of the up-to-the-minute style may innocently ask why buying the latest is a problem.
They have a reasonable point in arguing that it's not only the wealthy that should deserve to enjoy being fashionable. Fast-fashion's quick imitation of top designs helps those who can't afford high fashion to enjoy chic.
But the problem is the clothing industry's threatening impact on the cotton fields to the sweatshops, experts say.
A report from researchers at Cambridge University titled ``Well Dressed?'' claims that fast fashion leaves a harmful footprint in each step of its short life ― from the cultivation of cotton, through garment production, washing and disposal at a landfill.
The faster fashion moves, the more damaging it is to the environment.
Unethical labor management is also an issue.
Many clothing retailers turn to China, Bangladesh and Pakistan for cheap labor, but they've been known to exploit workers under dangerous conditions. The U.S. National Labor Committee reported last year that some Chinese garment workers labor 16-hour shifts, earning just 12 to 18 cents per hour.
``The environmental and labor costs are obviously not reflected on the price of clothes,'' said Lee, who stressed that the fashion industry must urgently look to become more sustainable.
How Fast Is Korea?
Global fast-fashion brands have just recently made inroads into the local market, but South Korean consumers have already long been spoiled with catwalk knockoffs at dirt cheap prices.
Dongdaemun and Myeongdong offer a huge variety of copied Italian looks at affordable prices, but they've so far received little attention as ``fast fashion'' due to their lack of brand identity.
Homegrown labels such as Polham, Giordano and Basic House have the brand identity, but lack competitiveness to emerge as a global force, industry experts say.
``Domestic brands have taken a stab at the global market, but their sourcing and manufacturing system fall too behind,'' said an official at a local fast fashion label, who didn't want to be named.
Successful brands usually have new design reach retail shelves within two to three weeks. This means everything from design, production to shipping is done at a lightening speed.
Lee of the environmental group says Korean companies may hope to be part of the global fast fashion movement, but urged them to go the other way toward ``slow-fashion.''
Slow-fashion refers to clothes produced with textiles made from recycled or organic materials and manufactured by workers paid a reasonable wage.
Responsible Fashion
So how can you become more fashionably responsible?
Try not to buy as much, experts say.
The Korea Women's Environmental Network survey showed that 70 percent of respondents shop at least once a month, with more than 30 percent saying that they spend 50,000 to 100,000 won per outing, while about 22 percent said they spend 30,000 to 50,000 won. Only 20 percent said they spend 100,000 to 200,000, won, which demonstrates that shoppers tend to make purchases of less costly fast fashion brands.
Buying from local labels could also help reduce carbon footprints. Instead of purchasing garments that traveled from oceans across, try picking out those made locally or regionally, advices Lee.