Local microbrewery creates Korea's first native cider

Phil Kelm, second from left, and Bryan Do, third from left, toast Korea's first cider — with a glass of
the same. / Courtersy of Andrew Salmon

By Andrew Salmon

Craft ales have transformed Korea's beer scene in recent years, and now a local microbrewery has created Korea's home-grown cider — the world's fastest-growing alcoholic beverage category.

"Cider," however, could prove a misleading term for locals.

In Japan and Korea, "cider" customarily refers to a category of soft drink, but the English term "cider" means a kind of wine made from apples — albeit usually drunk in the manner and quantity of beer. For centuries, cider has been appreciated by drinkers in England, France and Spain, is now produced and drunk worldwide, from Scandinavia to New Zealand, and is surging in popularity.

Thus far, only imported ciders have been available in Korea. That is now set to change.

"Cider is the fastest-growing alcoholic beverage category in the world, according to Euromonitor," said Bryan Do, a Korean-American who runs Gyeonggi-based brewery Hand and Malt and its new cider affiliate, Hand and Apple. "So we thought, ‘Why not start the trend in Korea?'"

Last week, the 41-year-old entrepreneur poured Korea's first-ever glasses of native cider for an invited audience of food-and-beverage reporters and bloggers at the Gangnam gastropub Hopscotch. He is convinced that Koreans will enjoy cider once they are exposed to it.

"This is a blue ocean market, but Koreans love fruit alcoholic beverages," Do said. "We want to be the category leader for craft cider in Korea."

Consulting to Do's cider-making operation in Gyeonggi Province is Phil Kelm, 52, a semi-legendary American bon vivant, master brewer and cider maker who owns Michigan-based Gitchee Gumee Cider Works. "I hope that Korea finds the same love of cider that the rest of the world has," he said.

Do offers two ciders. The house cider is a semi-carbonated, full-bodied, medium-dry tipple that is refreshing to drink as a stand-alone, and would pair well with the many pork dishes that are a standout of Korean cuisine.

A raspberry-infused cider, which is sweeter and fruitier, would best accompany desserts — though Kelm is convinced it will drive female drinkers wild. "We are going to get a tax credit for increasing Korea's birth rate with this!" he predicted.

So far, six outlets have purchased advance batches of the ciders. Do plans expanded production and sales once feedback is received from the first kegs sold.

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