Korea's drinking culture

By Bernard Rowan

One joy about visiting or living in South Korea is drinking with friends. Many good times have I spent around the dinner table or at a restaurant, enjoying the wonderful foods of Korea with maekju (beer), soju (Korean vodka) or maesilju (Korean plum wine).

Like many global cultures rooted in agriculture, Koreans have produced wonderful alcoholic drinks for centuries and take pride in their quality and variety. It's good to see many of these drinks at American grocery and liquor stores these days.

Just as I have enjoyed many a fine meal in an English or Irish pub, my favorite Korean establishments that serve food and liquor are not "bars." They are places of hospitality and company that invite patrons to experience the happiness of friendship in eating and drinking.

I can't think of a single meal in Korea over nearly 20 years that hasn't been an enjoyable experience of food, drink and social interaction.

Korea's drinking culture isn't "bottom's up." That's vulgar. Also, drinking until one spews isn't it; that's an old abuse. Just slow down and remember that conversation and company make the drink taste better.

I say this because there is much misuse of Korea's drinking culture. Don't give it a bad name. A recent article in a British newspaper cited statistics that Koreans "drink fast to get drunk" and consume many shots of liquor weekly. (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2551059/South-Koreans-drink-TWICE-Russians-five-times-Brits.html). TIME magazine even pronounced Koreans the world's hardest drinkers.

Enjoy Korea's spirituous liquors with others as part of a meal. There is the etiquette of Korea's drinking culture. There are suitable gestures to display, including holding one's arm at the elbow to show respect. After the senior pours, a junior fills his glass. Don't drink for the sake of drinking. Heaven forbid.

It's also possible that a friend, old or new, will present his glass to you. You drink his glass because he likes you. At least that's how it's felt to me. It expresses his happiness to you. You can return the gesture too if you like. And smile.

Korea makes so many good drinks. Dongdongju, an alcoholic drink made from rice, is my favorite. Dongdongju is like makkeoli but more viscous. Drink it cold, usually in bowls. It's a wonderful accompaniment to food. There are a great many Korean drinks made from rice. Try Andong soju, a refined drink. But drink with care.

There are countless regional drinks, flower and fruit wines, and liquors viewed as having medicinal properties. Korean regional liquors come in various boxes with glasses and other ornaments.

The Korean drinking culture shows charm, variety and a sense of fun. Koreans also enjoy many foreign types of liquor, including cognac and Scotch.

Another powerful combination is poktanju. Americans call it a boilermaker. Many swear by it. I don't like it. I recommend a different drink called osipseju, which combines bekseju (100-year wine, which mixes various herbs with rice wine) and soju. It's best served in a nice teapot at Korean BBQ and other restaurants.

Professors can drink with students. It's supposed to be respectful and helps break down barriers between the learned and learners. This drinking context shows Korea's equality. I like it. We must pass the torch of life to the next generation.

Colleagues leave work to go eat and drink. Then they go back to work. I don't think Korea's economic miracle could have occurred with Korea's drinking culture. Energy builds with morale and collegiality.

Go to a noraebang and sing with your friends while enjoying Korean drinks and side dishes. It's a great way to spend the evening, even if the singing often begs another drink rather than applause.

Beware. We must all realize that sharing glasses and communal drinking exposes us to risk. On the other hand, it's like the chalice at a Catholic Mass. Believe in others.

Hangovers and drunken acts seem notorious, but hepatitis and cirrhosis can follow long and heavy drinking exposure. Drinking heavily brings on mortality.

You'll see people stumbling, leaning, and careening in subways. I advise you to hire a driver after enjoying "a few too many." Better yet, learn to uphold your limits regardless.

When I first came to Korea, it was rare to see women enjoying alcohol in public at all. Women served drinks rather than enjoyed company in drinking.

But, I'm glad that drinking with friends isn't something just for men nowadays. Women should enjoy a drink too. After all, they put up with us men.

Dear friends, Korea's drinking culture remains part of your advanced culture. Geonbae.

Bernard Rowan is assistant provost for curriculum and assessment, professor of political science and faculty athletics representative at Chicago State University, where he has served for 20 years. He can be reached at browan10@yahoo.com.

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