By Dale Quarrington
Often when a person visits a major Korean temple, they tend to ignore the hermitages that surround it simply because they may not know about them or have the time to visit them. This is a shame because the hermitages that surround some of Korea’s most famous temples are hidden gems. Such is the case with Beomeosa Temple in Busan.
Famous monk Uisang created the temple in 678. The temple itself has undergone a lot of renovation and reconstruction since the construction. The temple halls are beautiful both inside and out with colorful artwork and delicate designs.
The temple grounds house some hidden gems among the folds of Mt. Geumjeongsan. In total, there are 11 hermitages directly associated with the temple. Among them, three stand out. They are Gyemyeongam Hermitage, Chungryungam Hermitage, and Wonhyoam Hermitage.
Gyemyeongam Hermitage means Rooster’s Crow Hermitage in English. To get to this scenic hermitage that overlooks the valley that Beomeosa Temple rests in, you will first have to climb a rather steep 500 meter-tall trail. Once you do get to the top of the trail, you can enjoy beautiful views of the valley which embraces Beomeosa Temple and a handful of its hermitages. The view, coupled with the beautiful shrine halls, makes the hermitage well worth the effort to get to and see.
Yet another one of the beautiful hermitages you can visit around the temple is Chungryungam Hermitage. In English, it means Blue Lotus Hermitage. This hermitage is a lot easier to access than Gyemyeongam Hermitage and other temple grounds. Chungryunam Hermitage has a lot to offer the Korean temple adventurer.
First, it has beautiful flowers that welcome you to the temple like the blue mums and lavender Roses of Sharon. Past these flowers is an amazing alcove of statues depicting various Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, guardians, and Biseon. To the left of this alcove is the main hall. The hall is full of some extremely unique and rare paintings, much like the ones that illustrate different practices of the Seonmudo Korean martial arts.
Another highlight to this hermitage is the intricately designed stone lantern in front of the monk’s dorm and study hall. I also recommend visitors check out Chungryunam Hermitage.
Finally, another great hermitage to visit around Beomeosa Temple is Wonhyoam Hermitage. The hermitage took its name from the famous Korean monk, Wonhyo. He helped popularize Buddhism throughout the late Three Kingdoms Period and the early Silla Kingdom. It is built on the former residence of Wonhyo’s hut. Wonhyoam Hermitage is the most difficult of the 11 hermitages to get to with a 1.1 kilometer hike straight up the side of Mt. Geumjeongsan.
The buildings are not quite as beautiful as the ones at Gyemyeongam Hermitage but the sister hermitage at Beomeosa Temple, the views of Busan and the Nakdong River down below in the twisting and turning valleys are second-to-none. The hermitage itself is serene and worth visiting. If you have the time, strength, and the stamina, you should take a look at this hermitage, as well.
Unknowingly, all of these beautiful hermitages await visitors. So the next time you visit Beomeosa Temple, Tongdosa Temple, Haeinsa Temple, or any major temple for that matter, take the time to visit the amazingly beautiful hermitages that surround the main temple. If you do, you will be able to see some beautiful hidden gems all across the Korean countryside.
Dale Quarrington has been living in Korea, on and off, since 2003. He currently resides and teaches in Yangsan, South Gyeongsang Province. You can reach him through his blog: https://daleskoreantempleadventures.blogspot.com.