Linking Ancient Routes to Present

By Kim Ja-young

Following a friend's recommendation, I began watching an exceptional documentary series, ``Ancient Corridor in Heaven," which was co-produced by KBS and NHK two years ago.

It is about the world's oldest trade route, the ``Ancient Tea and Horse Caravan Road," which begins in the Sichuan and Yunnan provinces in Southwest China and stretches over 5,000 kilometers through the Himalayas to Tibet, Nepal and India. Like its name indicates, it was an important route, not only in the trade of tea and horses, but the caravans also carried sugar and salt to Tibet and brought back various local mountain goods.

I was previously unaware of this six-part series and fell in awe of the breathtaking scenery, the soundtrack and the portrayal of the characters that had adapted to and overcome the challenges of their barren environment for thousands of years.

The first episode follows the last horse caravans over a 2,000 kilometer-long journey, traversing picturesque but hazardous mountains over 3,000 meters high, where a single misstep could send them plummeting down the rock face into the deep river far below.

In the second episode, we meet five men on a 2,000 kilometer pilgrimage, taking over six months to Lhasa, with the men throwing themselves prostrate every five paces. Two men of the group are over 60 years old, and their role is to pull the handcart that carries the younger men's food and tents yet they seem content with their part in the mission. Their journey is to dedicate their bodies, hearts and minds to Buddha and pray for world peace.

In episode three, we see how trading tea and horses connected the ancient culture, religion and language of Tibet, Yunnan and Sichuan. For Tibetan people tea was essential to provide certain vitamins not found in their barren environment, so tea really was a way of life.

By the fourth and fifth episodes, we are shown the beautiful salt pans of Tibet and the Himalayan highlands. It is amazing to see natural salt fields over 5,000 meter high canyons. Salt was life for Himalayan caravans, and each year they made the long journey with their yaks to ferry the salt, and later trade it for barley at the market on the border between Tibet and Nepal. It is amazing to see the effort the women of Yangjing went through ― bending, loading and carrying 30 kilograms of salt water over fifty times a day.

Watching the film, it moved me to think what the meaning of life really is. The reason these caravans traveled along the toughest canyons in the world and Yanjing women carried heavy loads of salt water every day was to subsist by acquiring food and supplies essential for living. It was not for fame or fortune but for basic survival. Therefore, salt was their god, tea was their god and the road to maintain their life was their god.

Kim Mu-kwan, a chief producer of this film, who directed this project for a year and half said, ``If there was one place where Buddha remains it would have to be Tibet. It is the most beautiful place in the world but without divine protection the people cannot live." People who live there know it more than anyone so they are thankful for simply being alive and, mostly, they thank Buddha for protecting their lives in the highest, roughest place in the world.

I have a lot of salt and rice at home. I am not desperate for tea. I don't need to worry whether or not I will have food to eat this winter. Instead, I worry about myself as I traverse the canyon of petty rivalries and trivial concerns. Vera Wang dresses or Tiffany jewels in show windows might be my god. I don't know when I last gave thanks for a simple meal.

With the introduction of trains, asphalt roads and dams, the ancient routes are disappearing, and Tibetan and Lhasa tradition and culture is being destroyed, making way for modern civilization and commercialization.

The beautiful Yanjing salt pans might disappear into history. It is sad to consider that modern civilization regards traditional culture as inferior and it becomes lost to future generations. However, memories of the old road and the life of the caravans will stay in my heart and to act as a reminder when I become preoccupied with my selfish concerns.

I recommend this documentary to anyone who is tired of their stale life. The magnificent scenery and caravans' simple philosophy for living are beyond description. Through the film, we are given an opportunity to wonder why we are not happy even though we possess more than enough.

The writer is a radiation oncology resident at Bundang Cha Hospital. She can be reached at hontas0809@hotmail.com.