Artists fear Hongdae losing unique culture

Artists and residents based in Hongdae walk in a protest, Wednesday, against Mapo-gu Office which plans to designate the area a "special tourist zone." The banner says "Skyrocketing monthly rent, collapsing art culture. This is Not Hongdae!" / Korea Times photo by Choi Ha-young

Row rises over tourist zone designation

By Choi Ha-young

The area around Hongik University, better known as Hongdae, is the birthplace of Korean indie music and youth culture. But it is now facing a transition, as the district office plans to designate the area a "special tourist zone" despite opposition from residents and artists there who claim the designation will damage the unique atmosphere.

In an attempt to attract more foreign tourists, Mapo-gu Office is working to have the area designated as a special zone similar to Itaewon and Myeong-dong. It plans to build tourist hotels with casinos through deregulation. Following further study on the issue through November, the Seoul Metropolitan Government will decide whether to pursue the designation possibly within this year.

The plan, however, has faced strong opposition from residents, tenants and artists there, who say the Hongdae area, the "hipsters' holy ground," has already been spoiled by capitalism.

"Franchised cosmetic shops, restaurants advertising bottom prices and bars advertising pickups are dominating Hongdae," Jung Jin-se, a playwright, said in a discussion at underground club Rolling Hall, Wednesday. "If the office pushes ahead with this plan, skyscrapers, tourist hotels with casinos and duty free shops will push out the remaining value like narrow alleys and sky seen between low buildings."

The area has raised numerous legendary bands such as No Brain and Crying Nut. "To become a band performing in a large stadium, they have to step up from small to bigger stages. Our club is a small one where performers and their audiences can breathe together," said a musician surnamed Choi, 38. "Such places are disappearing due to soaring monthly rent."

The participants agreed that Hongdae's unique environment has already been degraded, saying it is already a shopping district, not much different from Myeong-dong. "The creation of a special tourist zone will deepen this change," Choi said.

"It may be an opportunity for large businesses and landlords but independent artists and small shop owners will face a harsher environment," said Kim Young-deung, owner of Club Bbang, who has operated there since 2004.

The participants said that like Myeong-dong or Gangnam, tour groups are becomming a common sight in Hongdae, urging the local authority to recover the unique atmosphere of the area. "The district office should study Hongdae's historic value and composition of the visitors before launching such a plan," said Woo Seung-in, an official from the Green Party Korea, who spent her 20s in Hongdae when fringe culture flourished here.

Still, many people including foreigners head to Hongdae to enjoy the culture. "I can see dancers, street guitarists, and unique shops that I can only find in Hongdae," said Natasha, 24, a Russian tourist. Of the development plan, she immediately said, "It will spoil everything."

Artists highlighted Hongdae culture's autonomous power, saying the artists and visitors created their own culture there without government support. Kim Sang-cheol from the Labor Party said Hongdae attracts more than 6.5 million visitors a year, adding, "It's not the government but artists who achieved this record. The government and landlords should not hijack this achievement."

For street vendors, the plan's benefit is unclear. "I hope more foreign visitors means more money. But if casinos are set up, rich gamblers won't eat street food," said Jang, who has sold hotteok (sweet pancakes) here for six years.

Officials at Mapo-gu Office said they are aware of the concerns about the plan and will do their best to protect the local culture.

Seoul currently has six special tourist zones: Itaewon, Myeong-dong, Dongdaemun, Jongno, Jamsil and Gangnam.

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