By Bae Ji-sook
Staff Reporter
What was Korea like in the 19th century in the eyes of a perfect stranger?
According to Thomas Edward Hallifax (1842-1908) from Britain, the first government-hired English teacher in Korean history, Joseon (1392-1910) was, as expected, rather unfamiliar - but its people were kind.
Hallifax, who was handpicked by King Gojong (1863-1907) for the role, wrote in a Japanese magazine in 1890 that Korean customs were strange: people wearing rag-like stockings and hats made of bamboo, and smoking a foot-long pipe.
The article, unearthed by Kim Sung-soo, said the writing is significant because he observed Joseon in the middle of change.
Despite his peculiar observations, Hallifax went on to note that Korean people were very polite.
"During the six years I have spent in Joseon, people were never hostile or vulgar. They have never forced me to do anything I wouldn't want to," he wrote under the title of "Story of Joseon".
Though he found the streets filled with litter at times, he praised Koreans for their "unique beauty."
"They are frank but mild. They are very good at guest service - they do it from the bottom of their heart," he wrote.
Hallifax, who had met many top ranking officials in Joseon, mentioned King Gojong too.
"He is a handsome and bright person. Still, he shares his power with the queen," citing that Queen Myeongseong (1851-1895) had a firm position inside the palace.
Referring to the work, Kim said, "The article shows how foreigners became accustomed to life in Korea. They were intimidated at first, but came to love it."
Hallifax, from Westbury, Britain, arrived in Seoul in 1883 to work at Dongmunhak - the first English education institute in Korea. While working there, he taught several high-profile figures such as later independence fighter Namgung Eok.
When the school closed in 1886, he worked as an engineer. He went to Japan briefly, but returned in 1895 and passed away 13 years later. His body is buried in Yanghwajin, Seoul.