Discovering Changdeok Palace in the moonlight

By Yun Suh-young

For those who have seen the film "The Last Princess" released earlier this month spanning the tragic life of Yi Deok-hye the last princess of the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910), they may relate more to her story when visiting Changdeok Palace in the heart of Seoul.

The beautiful cozy palace located in Jongno-gu, Seoul, which was where the last princess lived until her final days, opens up for a "moonlight tour" every year during spring and autumn. It has already conducted spring programs from March through June and opens up once again for fall programs from August through October. The tour is scheduled around the days when the full moon shines.

A cheongsachorong is hung on the door leading into Nakseonjae. / Korea Times photo by Yun Suh-young

The tour begins at Donhwamun, the entrance to Changdeok Palace and through Jinseonmun, Injeongjeon, Nakseonjae, Sangryangjeong, Buyongji, Bulromun, Yeongyeongdang and the Huwon forest trail, and back to Donhwamun.

Nakseonjae is where Princess Yi Deok-hye, the youngest child of King Gojong, lived until her death after returning to Korea in 1962 at the age of 50, over three decades since her departure to Japan. When she was 13, she was forced by the Japanese to study in Japan and was later coerced to marry a Japanese count. She returned to her home country suffering from schizophrenia and died at Nakseonjae in 1989. All of the members of her royal family had lived in Nakseonjae until their death, including her brother King Yeongchin and his wife Lee Bang-ja, who both returned from Japan at an old age. At Nakseonjae, visitors can view the interior of the palace from the outside.

A daegeum (bamboo flute) player performs traditional music inside Sangryangjeong. / Courtesy of Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation

At the beginning of the "moonlight tour," participants are given a cheongsachorong, a traditional Korean lantern, with red-and-blue silk shades, to carry throughout the tour to light their way. At the entrance, participants are grouped in five teams of 30, each team led by a tour guide.

Donhwamun is where the tour starts. Built in 1609, it is the oldest remaining structure in Changdeok Palace. Then participants are guided along Geumcheongyo, the oldest stone bridge inside the palace, after which they encounter Injeongjeon, where kings were crowned and where they used to greet foreign envoys and hold important meetings. The next building they see is the famous Nakseonjae, which was built in 1847 by King Heonjong for his beloved royal concubine. It is where Princess Deokhye and her sister in law Lee Bang-ja lived until they passed away.

Participants of the Moonlight Tour walk around Buyongji which was the king’s pond. / Courtesy of Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation

Then participants walk up to the Sangryangjeong, a pentagon-shaped tower behind Nakseonjae, where they watch a daegeum (bamboo flute) player performing traditional music. The flute program was added to the tour this year.

The view overlooking the city from Sangryangjeong is dreamy with the full moon in the sky and with the traditional flute music in the background. After enjoying the calm, participants are guided to Buyongji which is a royal pond built for the king's private use.

Finally they pass through Bulromun which means the "gate of eternal youth," built to wish for a long life for the king. Passing the gate, visitors arrive at the Yeongyeongdang, where they are treated to a fabulous traditional music performance played from inside a hanok (traditional Korean house) under the moonlight. Yeongyeongdang is a series of 120 houses built inside the palace by Prince Hyomyeong, son of King Soonjo and father of King Heonjong who built the Nakseonjae. Yeongyeongdang was used as a venue for banquets during King Gojong and King Soonjong's reign.

Meeting up to its original purpose, here visitors listen to a gugak (traditional Korean music) troupe perform a variety of genres from string ensembles to pansori to gayageum, ending with foreign songs played on Korean instruments. Before entering the show, guests are provided with a package of biscuits and tea.

The tour overall is of high quality, mainly because of the superb explanations by experienced guides. The moonlight tour's guides have over five years of experience in guiding palace tours. Tours are offered in Korean, English, Chinese and Japanese. Each tour guide speaks Korean and a second language.

Other than the mesmerizing scenery of the palace at night, watching the gugak performance is another gem of the tour. Also, it is an exclusive opportunity to view Nakseonjae and Sangryangjeong which are only opened to the public during the moonlit tours.

The August program ended on Aug. 20. but its September tour will be available at 8 p.m. from Sept. 12 to 13 for foreigners and Sept. 14 through 17 for locals. In October, the tour for locals will be offered from Oct. 6 through 16 twice at 7 p.m. and 8 p.m., while for foreigners, it is available only on Oct. 8. at 7 p.m.

The program accepts 150 participants a day on a first-come first-served basis. The fee is 30,000 won and ticket reservations can be made at https://ticket.interpark.com or https://ticket.interpark.com/Global for foreigners. For further information, call 02-2270-1233.

On Aug. 29, a special program awaits at Changdeok Palace. An upcoming fantasy animation film "Moonlight Palace," scheduled for release in September, will be previewed at the palace. The film is about an adventure inside Changdeok Palace.