San Sebastian: A city loved by a queen

A panoramic view of the bay of La Concha from atop Monte Igueldo / Korea Times photos by Jung Min-ho

Its stunning views and delicious food will fascinate you too

By Jung Min-ho

SAN SEBASTIAN, Spain ― San Sebastian, or Donostia in the Basque language, is best known as a foodie paradise, with more Michelin-stars per capita than any other city in the world.

While the city's food will fascinate your palate, its breathtaking views will blow your mind. The beauty of the Bay of Biscay and Zurriola Beach will make you pause for a while.

These are just some of the sceneries that Queen Maria Christina fell in love with in the 19th century. To treat her skin problems with the sunshine and fresh ocean air, the queen went to the city with gorgeous landscapes, staying at her residence near the beach.

My first experience in the charming city was enriched by my guide Eskerne Falcon, a San Sebastian native who genuinely loves her hometown. She takes photos of her city almost every day. "It looks different depending on the weather," she said.

For me, San Sebastian looked most beautiful when it rains, with gray clouds above and the sound of ocean waves. These elements created a dreamy atmosphere, which, for a moment, made me feel like the city was my hometown.

A night of pintxo hopping in a city with the world's highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants

Gastronomic wonderland

In the increasingly globalizing world, good chefs can move from city to city and from country to country, helping establish many Michelin-starred restaurants in various destinations.

The real culinary attraction of San Sebastian is that you don't have to dine exclusively at the starred restaurants to get great food. They abound everywhere you go.

The best way to enjoy the city's food is pintxo hopping.

Pintxos _ also known as tapas _ refer to any wide range of bar food, from a slice of smoked salmon with sour cream to rice with squid ink. Many pintxo bars are clustered in the Old Town, a great area to enjoy the local culture.

If you want to eat like the locals, you should get only one plate or two at one place and then move on to the next place and do the same. This is how to try the best food from and enjoy the unique atmosphere in each restaurant.

To avoid looking like an amateur, order food directly at the bar instead of choosing from the menu. "This way, you can taste the freshest delicacies, many of which are off-menu," Falcon said. To successfully do so, however, you may need someone who is familiar with the local restaurant specialties.

For drinks, try txakoli, which is one of the city's cultural gems that you simply must try. The slightly sparkling, dry white wine from the city has a light body that pairs perfectly with almost any serving of pintxos. Remember to pace yourself when it comes to drinks lest you want to get drunk too early.

For desert, the cheesecake at La Vina is highly recommended. Creamy and sweet at just the right amount, this cheesecake can be the perfect ending to your pintxo-hopping experience.

Here are some dining tips from locals. A restaurant's quality can be seen through its floors. Since it is customary to toss napkins on the floor, a good dining place tends to have many of them.

Also, you are not supposed to pay every time you order food. Just tell the barman what you ate when you leave.

A night of pintxo hopping in a city with the world's highest concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants

Stunning views

Monte Igeldo is perhaps the most famous place to be to get a phenomenal view of the shell-shaped bay of La Concha, the pride of San Sebastian.

An old railway can take you to the top of Monte Igeldo in just a few minutes. The train runs every 15 minutes after 10 a.m.

Walking on a sidewalk next to Zurriola Beach is also definitely something to try. You can see its beautiful golden sand and awesome waves, which attract many surfers. If you want to join them, boards and wetsuits are available to rent right on the beach.

Located at one end of Alderdi-Eder Park, San Sebastian's town hall is the city's most majestic buildings. The best thing about the town hall is its view from the top. There, you can see old buildings on both sides of the Urumea River as well as the beautiful Bridge of Maria Cristina.

Incredible outskirts

Those who want to explore the outskirts of San Sebastian can visit the wonderful Hondarribia. Just about 15 kilometers from the city, Hondarribia is well-known for its seafood and relaxing maritime atmosphere.

The small fishing town is home to an ancient old quarter with tall walls and a castle, rendering a vibe of silence and stillness.

One of the best features of the town is its location, which is right on the coastal border with France. The south of France is only about 10 minutes by boat and can be seen from the town.

The suburb of Tolosa, which has impressive narrow, colorful cobblestone streets, is another must-visit for those who want to feel more of Northern Spain's small-town atmosphere.

The Sanctuary of Loyola is a landmark in the region. Surrounded by mountains and gardens, the grand cathedral in Azpeitia is about 40 minutes away from San Sebastian.

Recommended local guide

Eskerne Falcon (Discover San Sebastian)

Phone: +34 635 759 961

E-mail: eskerne@discoversansebastian.com

Website: www.discoversansebastian.com

Recommended restaurant

Bar Casa Gandarias

Phone: +34 943 426 362

Website: www.restaurantegandarias.com

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