Visiting Changdeokgung Palace when fall foliage is at peak

A view of Changdeokgung Palace in autumn/ Courtesy of the Cultural Heritage Administration

By Kwon Ji-youn

Though the Cultural Heritage Administration (CHA) may have scrapped plans to turn parts of the Changdeokgung Palace into a luxury hotel of sorts ― one with a 3 million won-per-night price tag ― it did not rule out the possibility of using the UNESCO-registered heritage site for other commercial purposes.

A quick tour of the palace explained why the CHA had so eagerly hoped to allow public access to more than just the palace grounds ― and why it went from being second to Gyeongbokgung Palace to serving as the main royal dwelling for several kings of the Joseon Kingdom (1392-1910).

After the Japanese invasion (1592-98), Gyeongbokgung Palace was left in ruins, and so for 270 years, Changdeokgung Palace served as the main palace, until Gyeongbokgung was rebuilt in 1868.

It was built in 1405, during King Taejong's reign, to compensate for Gyeongbokgung's unfavorable topography. It is said, however, that Taejong had been reluctant to reside at Gyeongbokgung Palace because he had killed his half brothers there.

Constructed on the base of a mountain, Changdeokgung Palace was built to induce as minimal disturbance as possible to the area's topology, and though parts of the palace were destroyed under Japanese occupation from 1910 through 1945, a restoration project that began in 1991 is still a work in progress.

An aerial view of Changdeokgung Palace in autumn / Courtesy of the Cultural Heritage Administration

According to the CHA, Changdeokgung Palace, which was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997, is unique in Korea's architectural history ― it retains remarkable asymmetric beauty in its layout and molds harmoniously into its backdrop. It is ideal to visit during fall, when the autumn foliage is at its most impressive and the palace's Secret Garden is dappled in red and yellow.

The main gate of the palace, namely Donhwamun, is the largest of all palace gates and the very entrance that the king would use during royal ceremonies. On the grounds, Geumcheongyo, one of the country's oldest stone bridges runs across a stream built adjacent to the palace, and this bridge was designated a national treasure.

Injeongjeon, the throne hall of Changdeokgung, was where major state affairs, including coronation and envoy receptions, took place, and Seonjeongjeon was where the king would hold meetings with high ranking officials. It was destroyed in a fire during the Japanese invasion of 1592 and rebuilt in 1647.

Huijeongdang served as the king's bed chambers, and later, his workplace. It too was consumed in a fire, but was reconstructed and outfitted with western features like wooden floorboards, carpets and chandeliers.

Story of Daejojeon

Daejojeon, the queen's residence, was where the very last cabinet meeting of the kingdom before Japan's annexation of Joseon took place.

It was ravaged in a fire in 1917, and rebuilt with materials taken from Gyeongbokgung. The only traces of the original building are seen in the colonnaded corridors that link Daejojeon with Gyeonghungak, a pavilion, behind it. The last king and queen's bed chambers remain in the Daejojeon building.

Between Seongjeongak, where the crown prince studied Confucian scripture with scholars, and Nakseonjae, a residential compound inside Changdeokgung Palace, used to stand Junghuidang, where the crown prince lived, and on the grounds was Gwolnaegaksa, a cluster of government offices including the royal library, infirmary and publication office.

Secret Garden

A rear patch of greenery stippled with pavilions and ponds, hidden away behind the palace, is known as the Secret Garden.

It boasts an unusual and exquisite design, and according to the CHA, it once served as a place for composing poetry, a setting for contemplation, a venue for banquets and an archery range. The royal family enjoyed fishing and boating on the pond and the king and queen farmed and raised silkworms in this garden.

At the heart of the Secret Garden is Buyongji and Juhamnu, buildings used for study and retreats, and Gyujanggak and Seohyanggak, royal libraries. State exams were conducted here. Juhamnu Pavilion stands on high ground and commands a fine view of the pond.

Nakseonjae

The Nakseonjae Hall, built in 1847 by King Heonjong, made headlines in July, when reports surfaced that the CHA was considering a "palace stay" project at Nakseonjae as a part of plans to commercialize a UNESCO-registered heritage site with the aim of "breathing new life into the palace."

It comprises three separate buildings ― the Nakseonjae, Seokbokheon and Sugangjae ― and is best known as the place where the Japanese-born empress Lee Bang-ja and King Gojong's only daughter, Princess Dokhye, lived out their remaining days.

The CHA gave the example of Spanish Parador hotels to support the proposal but experts said that comparing the stone buildings of Parador to wooden Korean traditional architecture was ludicrous. In September, the CHA announced it had decided to drop the controversial scheme.

"The palace is symbolic of the Joseon Kingdom and remodeling for accommodation could cause safety problems," said Choi Sung-rak, who heads the Historic Sites Subcommittee of the Cultural Heritage Committee.

"The committee members concluded that a more cautious approach is required for the proposal. Initially, we had hoped to familiarize visitors with historic palaces, but concluded it will benefit only a few guests."