Baengnyeong Island: the most beautiful military frontline in Korea

This is the second of a two-part series on “security tourism,” a growing tourism trend of traveling to destinations near the inter-Korean border — ED.

By Yun Suh-young

BAENGNYEONG ISLAND — About 190 kilometers northwest of the port city of Incheon sits a beautiful island called “Baengnyeongdo.”

Surrounded by crystal clear waters in which sea lions are sometimes spotted surfacing, this northernmost island of South Korea is reminiscent of the Mediterranean island of Corsica, according to visitors from France.

Yet it is little known to the public because the island is more famous for being a military frontline than a tourist destination.

Although the island has not suffered any military or civilian attack from North Korea, it is close to Yeonpyeong Island where shells from North Korea landed in November 2010, killing two marines and two civilians. The island is also close to where a South Korean naval vessel, Cheonan, sank earlier that year. Forty-six soldiers died in what is presumed to have been an attack ordered by Pyongyang.

Yet the heightened security on the island following the incidents does not seem to affect the residents. Baengnyeongdo is surprisingly quiet, calm and comforting — making people forget that it’s a military frontline. The scenery of the coast and the ocean is mesmerizingly beautiful.

Beautiful rocks viewed from an observatory situated about five minutes walk from the Monument of Prayer for Unification, close to Yeonhwari dock

Increasing numbers of tourists seem to enjoy embarking on adventurous tours to security-sensitive zones. Riding on the back of this is a growing trend of traveling to destinations near the inter-Korean border, including tours to the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) that divides the two Koreas.

Baengnyeongdo is soon to become the next most-sought tourist destination for foreigners in Korea.

Military-related sites

The island — located just 17 kilometers from the North Korean region of Jangsangot — is rife with military-related sites to see. A memorial tower commemorating the soldiers who perished during the sinking of the Cheonan is just 2.5 kilometers away from the position where the incident occurred.

Being a military frontline, the 6th Marine Brigade is located on the island. Military weaponry such as tanks and cannons are displayed at tourist sites so that visitors can take photos of them.

“People who come here will be those who want something new,” said Lee Charm, CEO of Korea Tourism Organization (KTO) during a trip with some 50 foreign embassy officials and foreign correspondents to tour the island.

“Foreigners are likely to think that the situation between the two Koreas is serious to the point of war breaking out, but it’s actually not that risky. Besides, adventurous types will enjoy the thrill of coming here because it’s not an easy place to get to.”

Tourists arrive at Yeonhwari dock to board a ferry that will take them to Dumujin. / Korea Times photos by Yun Suh-young

Prior to the shelling of Yeonpyeong Island, Baengnyeongdo saw quite a lot of vacationers during the summer, but the incident has led to a drop in numbers. The livelihood of the islanders, which was driven by tourism, has been hit hard. The tourism organization, which intended to promote the northernmost island earlier in the year, delayed the plan due to more threatening rhetoric from North Korea.

“They should definitely sell this island more as a tourist destination,” said Giles Hewitt, bureau chief of AFP who participated in the trip sponsored by the KTO.

“Where do you think most tourists want to go when they come to Korea? It’s the DMZ. I think this island can really bring a lot of tourists like the DMZ.”

The thrill of visiting a place which is “supposedly dangerous” is the underlying reason behind the increasing interest in going on “security tours.”

A cannon is installed next to Simcheonggak Pavilion, a place that commemorates the legendary folktale of Simcheong who threw herself in the ocean so that her father could see.

“I’ve always been interested in new places. I wanted to participate in the trip because I wanted to go somewhere not many have been to. Then I could come back and tell my friends that I’ve been to this exotic and exciting place and even heard gunshots,” said Normann Polidoro, a recently recruited French employee at the KTO.

The gunshots came from marines who were training on the day of the tour.

“I’m not afraid of North Korea. It doesn’t scare me even if there is news about threats all the time. I didn’t feel at risk coming here. Besides, isn’t that part of the thrill?”

Beauty of landscape

One surprising fact about Baengnyeong Island is that it causes French visitors to think of the island of Corsica, situated southeast of mainland France in the Mediterranean Sea.

“This place reminds me of Corsica,” said Romain Desmarescaux, another French participant on the trip.

“In fact, it’s even better,” added Normann Polidoro, the French KTO employee.

The primary reason behind the association is a rocky cluster of islets called “Dumujin.”

Known as the Mt. Geumgang (a mountain in North Korea known for its beauty) of the West Sea, Dumujin is a must-see sight when visiting Baengnyeongdo.

Visitors can take an hour-long boat ride around the islets. An island native drives a ferry around the islets, explaining the names and stories behind the rocks. The scenery is so breathtaking that it makes an hour seem short.

Another great place to visit is Congdol Beach, a beach lined with colorful pebbles. The pebbles are shaped like beans; the “cong” in the name means “bean” and “dol” means “stone” in Korean.

The beach is great to walk on barefoot because the pebbles are said to “massage” the feet and help blood circulation.

Then there’s Sagot Beach, which features soft, powdery sand that is somehow strong enough for the beach to be used as an airfield, one of two shoreline locations in the world used for this purpose.

Travel information

●It takes 4 hours, 50 minutes to reach the island by ferry from Incheon Port. Hours are subject to change due to the capricious weather conditions.

●Ferry ticket prices begin from 56,000 won for a one-way ticket and from 110,000 won for a round-trip depending on the ferry

●The ferries leave three times a day at 8 a.m., 8:50 a.m. and 1 p.m.

●Baengnyeongdo does not have hotels but offers a couple of motels that are clean and equipped with beds. Rooms with beds are almost up to the level of a two- or three-star hotel. Rooms without beds contain floor mattresses.

●There are currently no package tours available from the mainland but there are a few from travel agencies on the island.

●For more information, visit www.ongjin.go.kr or english.visitkorea.or.kr.