Weekender Exploring Post-Olympics Beijing
By Lee Hyo-won
Korea Times Correspondent
BEIJING ― When in Rome, do as the Romans do. Or when in China, do as the Chinese do. Expect things to take a while longer there, and don’t get too anxious if plans don’t pan out.
The capital city has changed however since the 2008 Beijing Olympics. Some of the missing subway lines between 2 and 13, for example, have been completed ― just eight years ago only lines 1, 2 and 13 were in operation. Unlimited transfers on all lines (expect the Airport Express) is available for only 2 yuan (500 won or around 50 cents).
What was once the kingdom of bikes, with four out of five commuters pedaling to work in the 1980s, has catered to hoards of cars in recent years. Traffic jams are common, especially since vehicles tangled up in an accident cannot budge an inch until the police arrives. This also means more carbon dioxide.
The air however is cleaner than before.
One in two cars was prohibited from streets during the Summer Games and now one in five is now permanently banned. Recent statistics suggest that only one in five Beijing residents uses bikes, but more are now buying electric bicycles to avoid wasting time on the road.
But what makes Beijing special ― exotic street foods, magnificent heritage sites and unique shopping _ still sizzles and shines. Here is a must-do list in town. It may be passé for experienced Beijing-travelers but nevertheless a classic for savoring Beijing’s eclectic mix of things traditional and contemporary.
Things Traditional
A visit to China would never be complete without setting foot on one of the great wonders of the world, the Great Wall of China.
The fortress, built to block northern invaders, winds up and down across mountains, plateaus, deserts and grasslands ― stretching approximately 8,851.8 kilometers from east to west of the country.
Local myth has it that the wall was built ``overnight.’’ Of course we know this isn’t true; the world’s largest construction project took many millennia and dynasties to complete, from the Warring States Period (476-221 BC) all the way to the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644).
Most of what is seen today was built during the Ming period, and required millions of men working lifetimes on nothing but this project. Young, able men were recruited from one village after another.
The myth about the wall being built in one night was inspired by a famous story. A young woman had to move far away from home in order to wed, after all the bachelors in her hometown were employed for the wall. The men in her new village, however, had not heard that the job was ``for life’’ and voluntarily enrolled in the project. The newlywed bride was grief-stricken to see her husband leave.
After months of deliberating ways to bring her husband back home, an idea dawned upon her when a beggar came knocking on her door. She told the beggar that she desperately missed her husband, and would pay him six months’ worth of salary and grant him one wish if he switches places working on the wall with her husband for two weeks.
The beggar gladly accepted the offer, and asked the woman to spend one night with him. She consented, and the next morning the beggar happily went off to work in place of the husband. The husband, however, never came back, and so the wall was built for one night of bliss and a lifetime of agony.
The Badaling Section of the Great Wall is the most representative part of the fortress. It is the closest section to Beijing and has been open to visitors since 1957. It is thus the most crowded.
Also, the wall itself is one of the newer parts; brick rather than stone was used in some sections, giving it a less ancient feel.
Nevertheless, the edifice twisting along the curves of the mountain like a dragon is breathtaking to see, and would prove to be a ``great’’ wall experience. A big sign commemorating the Olympics, with the Badaling section as a backdrop, can also be seen as you head back to the city.
You can take the cable car up to the summit (tickets for the cable car and entrance to the wall must be paid for separately). Visitors should be warned that a ride can be pretty scary and that it stops running at 4:30 p.m. sharp. If you miss the last one, it means you have to take a long hike back.
Either way good walking shoes are a must.
Also not to miss is the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. Comfortable shoes are also a must to explore the immensely vast palace, which is famous as the backdrop for the immense coronation scene in Bertolucci’s film ``The Last Emperor.’’ Visitors should remember that entrance to the Forbidden City ends pretty early, at 3:30 p.m. Some prefer visiting Tiananmen Square very early in the morning, when you can be virtually alone to take in the sight of Chairman Mao’s portrait.
Something Scrumptious
A loaf of bread, however, is better than the song of many birds. Hungry tourists should treat themselves to some Beijing duck.
The Quanjude Restaurant is the largest roast duck restaurant in town. It can serve up to 5,000 meals per day. The duck is nice and crisp on the outside and soft and tender on the inside. Simply, take a thin pancake, place some meat and raw scallion strips after dipping them in bean sauce inside, roll it up and consume.
The history of roast duck can be traced back to as early as the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368). It was listed among imperial dishes and was favored among the upper class. The first restaurant to bear the name Quanjude opened in the late 19th century.
The restaurant can be immensely crowded on the weekend. The service can be rough but a bite of the savory dish is worth it. Note that there are several Quanjude restaurants in Beijing; the largest one described here is the one located at Hepingmen Gate.
Things Exotic
If tourists in Korea head to Myeongdong, Seoul, then those passing through Beijing flock over to Wangfujing. A familiar sight is Lotte Department Store, which occupies the center of the area. Here are the famous street stalls that sell everything from fried grasshoppers and worms to scorpions ― which are still alive and wiggling on a stick ― and stinky tofu. Beijing however is a city that does sleep; shops close early around 10 p.m.
If scorpions on a stick weren’t extreme enough, pay a visit to the local circus show. Remember Yen from ``Ocean’s Eleven’’? Chinese acrobats are famous for their mind-bending, gravity-defying and joint-popping contortions. Universal Theater and Chaoyang Theater in the Chaoyang District are among the main venues to catch performances.
Things to Shop for
If you’re looking for a souvenir or two to take back home, head over to Silk Street, which is equivalent to Dongdaemun here. The shopping center accommodates over 1,700 retail vendors that are notorious for counterfeit designer brand goods.
Vendors will pull at your arm, saying ``jinjja’’ (genuine) or ``ippeo’’ (pretty) as they point to their collection of fake Louis Vuitton handbags. But never settle for first offers. One vendor offered to sell a Louis Vuitton monogram key holder for 350 yuan while another compromised for 20 yuan. The bidding for a computer bag originally priced at 1,600 yuan ended up costing just 200. So get ready to haggle.
Also, vendors save the ``first-class’’ goods ― the ones that look so real that even experts have a hard time distinguishing ― for the more resolute shoppers. One vendor reluctantly pulled out a Samsonite carry-on bag that was apparently more than just a product on display; inside there were wallets that came in boxes and even had a guarantee card.
After all the shopping and sight-seeing, relax your sore limbs and feet with a massage. There are some shops run by Koreans where masseuses can speak Korean. Full body sessions, including some intense foot rubs, cost about 200 yuan.
