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Models stand on the runway for Andy & Debb’s fashion show during the 2010 spring/summer Seoul Fashion Week last October. Korean designers Kim Suk-won and Yoon Won-jung were chosen to participate in “Concept Korea: Fashion Collective 2010” during New York Fashion Week in February.
/ Courtesy of Seoul Fashion Week |
By Cathy Rose A. Garcia
Staff Reporter
If 2009 was any indication, then 2010 will be an exciting time for the Korean fashion industry.
The year saw Seoul stepping up its efforts to build its reputation as an haute couture capital with two successful Seoul Fashion Week events. Next year, local designers and companies are trying to become more competitive in order to battle global fashion brands not just at home, but also overseas.
Going Global
Unlike previous years when the focus was on the local market, Seoul Fashion Week placed more emphasis on global competitiveness.
Korea Fashion Association chairman Won Dae-yun said the survival of the Korean fashion industry is hinged on its ability to compete with foreign brands. Many Korean designers and brands are known for their high-quality, but also for their expensive price tags.
``Most Korean garments are very expensive because they only focus on the local market. That's why they don't want to export. But the local market is already 50 percent occupied by foreign brands, so many local designers are screaming that they are having difficulty and can't survive. But they don't even try to make their prices lower,'' he said.
Won, the former CEO of Cheil Industries who was responsible for launching brands such as Bean Pole, suggested that Koreans should make their design, quality and pricing globally competitive if they want to make inroads into the international market. Or maybe even incorporate unique elements of Korean culture to make them stand out from the rest.
``If we do Western clothing, we should add some Korean aspects to it such as Korean colors or fabrics to make it different. Otherwise, why would they buy from us … Western people don't know much about Korean culture or lifestyle, so we should try to make them understand and recognize Korea. Maybe in five years or later, we can have a world class Korean designer or fashion brand,'' he said.
Interestingly, the government is pushing Korean fashion designers more aggressively into the international markets through fashion shows and events.
The ``Concept Korea: Fashion Collective 2010'' will introduce several Korean designers during New York Fashion Week in February. Organized by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism and the Korea Culture & Contents Agency, the project involves opening a Korean showroom at the New York Public Library from Feb. 12 to 14.
Six Korean designers have been chosen to showcase their collection: Park Choon-moo (DEMOO), Jung Wook-juun (JUUN.J), Chung Ku-ho (KUHO), Kim Suk-won and Yoon Won-jung (Andy & Debb), Hong Seung-wan (ROLIAT) and Lee Doii (Doii Paris).
Lee, who has worked for Christian Dior and Kenzo in Paris, says that Korean designers are very talented, but some haven't quite embraced the idea of going global.
``I think Korean designers haven't yet recognized the importance of being international yet because Korea has a tradition that Korean people stay together. But in the last few years, people have been more aware of the international market. But with the help of the government, I think it will start happening,'' Lee said.
Fast Fashion Wars Heat Up
As H&M, the world's third largest fashion chain in terms of revenue, is preparing to enter the Korean market, expect fiercer competition among fast fashion brands here.
The market is already filled with global brands such as Japan's Uniqlo, Spain's Zara and U.S.-based brands Gap and Forever 21.
 Recently, a Korean fast fashion brand SPAO was launched by leading fashion retail conglomerate E-Land. It hopes to challenge foreign brands by offering a Korean take on fast fashion. The name SPAO is an acronym for ``specialty retailer of private label apparel original,'' which means the company produces its own clothing line and sells it exclusively in its stores.
SPAO made a big splash when it opened its three-storey flagship store in Myeongdong, alongside Uniqlo, Mango, Gap and Bean Pole, last month.
While it offers the usual range of T-shirts, jeans and sweaters, SPAO has set itself apart by tapping Korean pop groups Girls' Generation and Super Junior as image models. Girls' Generation and Super Junior members have also collaborated with SPAO to design a special line of shirts, sweaters and jackets, which are quite popular among fans.
However, H&M is looking to be a strong competitor when it opens in spring next year. The Swedish fashion chain is known for its collaborations with world famous designers such as Comme des Garcons, Karl Lagerfeld, Matthew Williamson, Jimmy Choo and Sonia Rykiel.
Emerging Fashion Trends
Meanwhile, new trends emerged at the spring and summer collections presented by local and international designers.
Women can keep an eye on trends such as sexy lingerie, bold florals, African tribal prints, puffed skirts, exaggerated ruffles and luxurious metallic fabrics. Men have it easier, tweaking their wardrobes with a few simple pieces like cuffed pants, tailored shorts and resort suits.
Say goodbye to black and dark colors, and say hello to pastel shades, perhaps a sign of more optimistic times ahead. Try injecting your wardrobe with peach pink and royal blue pieces.
Lingerie-inspired clothing, spotted on the runways from New York to Paris, is seen as a top trend for 2010. Corset tops, sheer skirts, lacy dresses and satin brassiere tops will give a sexy touch to any woman's wardrobe. However, make sure to pick lingerie-style items that will add a touch of sexiness, but in a tasteful way.
The military look has been updated with a feminine touch, as seen in elegant khaki jackets and use of softer camouflage prints.
The '80s trend shows no sign of waning, and exaggerated shoulders, boxy jackets, cinched waists, harem pants and puffed sleeves will continue to be seen in stores.
cathy@koreatimes.co.kr
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