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Chogyetang |
By Lee Hwan-hee
Staff Reporter
While summer should be on its last breath, for most of the time it doesn't feel like it is.
Naturally the food to go for in this weather is naengmyeon, buckwheat noodle served in cold beef broth. And if you're a fan of naengmyeon, there is a good chance you'll enjoy chogyetang, a specialty dish of the restaurant Pyeongraeok, which specializes in northern Korean dishes.
As for the food itself, If the name chogyetang reminds you of samgyetang and you're expecting hot boiling soup, you'll be surprised to find out that it is actually a variation on naengmyeon, as it is eaten in northern areas of Korea. In fact, naengmyeon itself is a dish originated from those regions (which now belong to North Korea), as a wintertime dish, even though it is usually eaten during summer now.
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Chicken mixed with spicy sauce |
The owner of the establishment, Ms. Im Kyeong-ran explains that "cho" in chogyetang comes from the Korean word "sikcho" (vinegar) and "gye" comes from the Korean word "gyeoja" (mustard). "Gye" in samgyetang refers to the Chinese character for "chicken". While chogyetang also does contain chicken, the name of the dish does not refer to it.
Then how come the altered pronunciation (to Korean speakers there is a clear difference between "gye" and "gyeo")? The answer is simply that's how the word is pronounced in North Korean dialects.
After you order a serving of chogyetang at the price of 13,000 Won, you'll get only two side dishes. Chicken mixed with spicy sauce and pickled radish, and you'll also get a cup of warm beef broth. They are all excellent.
Chogyetang is served in an enormous bowl, and the amount is probably good for two servings and as the restaurant does not serve the dish in smaller portions, it is a good idea to bring someone along when you want to try it out.
The dish indeed resembles naengmyeon in that it contains buckwheat noodle, radish, cucumber and white radish leaf kimchi, but the slices of beef and boiled egg usually found in naengmyeon are missing. Instead you'll find slices of chicken and much diced onion.
As with naengmyeon, you'll have the choice of adding vinegar and mustard for a more tangy taste. The sweet-and-sour taste is stronger in chogyetang than in naengmyun because the chicken meat tastes as if it was already dipped in vinegar and mustard.
For the broth, Ms. Im explains that you can use the same broth for chogyetang that you use for naengmyeon, which is usually made from beef. But the broth in these dishes can also be made from chicken or pheasant meat, though it cannot be made from pork, as it is too greasy.
All in all, the dish is probably not different enough from naengmyeon to feel novel, but it is worth trying out.
The place is not hard to find, as it is located right across the street from Joongang Cinema, a fairly large movie theatre near Euljiro 3-ga subway station. The other specialty dishes the restaurant serves are pheasant naengmyeon and Pyongyang-style dumpling soup. Call 02)2267-5892 for more information.
hl@koreatimes.co.kr |
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