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Tang's "bun-cha" |
By Lee Hyo-won
Staff Reporter
New in the downtown district of Gangnam, southern Seoul, is Tang, which serves quality Vietnamese dishes with a subtle local twist and modern touch.
Tang foregoes bamboo or other such motifs typical of Vietnamese eateries, and instead opts for something thoroughly urban-chic. Stepping into the sleek interior, you might as well be in New York, Shanghai or any other metropolis: the venue, in synch with the latest trends, features mod wooden furniture, a large communal table in the center and an open kitchen that reveals all the secrets of the chef.
Despite its modernity, however, it claims to be true to tradition. The chef trained with Mr. Thin of Pho Thin, Hanoi's most popular ``pho'' or rice noodle restaurant that sells 2,000 dishes of the steamy stuff per day.
The menu was very simple with three types of pho, a couple variations of ``bun-cha'' and steamed rice rolls. It was something rather promising ― a sign of confidence in specialization, an assurance of quality rather than quantity ― and it was not disappointing.
We tried the original pho. The price was rather high at 10,000 won but the dish was markedly different from that of other chains. First, there was no condiment dish of bean sprouts, Asian basil and lime (or lemon, which is more typical here). It was very simple: broth soup with rice noodles and bits of beef.
The broth had a very deep, refreshing taste, quite like ``gomtang'' (Korean beef stew), and yet the flavor was mild, while the beef was surprisingly sweet and tender. Beef, pork and chicken bones, along with various veggies, were brewed for over 12 hours for the rich soup. The taste got stronger toward the end of the meal, suggesting that natural flavoring was used, since MSG or other chemical powders usually dilute well and provides for an even taste throughout. The meat, the owner said, come from the cow's forelegs, and is fermented in sauce before being cooked quickly over a strong heat. Beef can very easily become leathery under the wrong temperature, and the juiciness was quite impressive.
The rice rolls were very fresh, from the handmade rice paper to the delicate stuffing of shrimp and egg whites. But four rolls for 7,000 won was too much, even for this place.
The restaurant's signature Hanoi dish ``bun-cha'' (25,000 won for two servings, 40,000 won for four) was delightful. A party of two will each receive three bowls ― salad, cold vermicelli (complete with an ice cube) and sauce ― and a pan of stir-fried pork. You dip the salad and noodles into the sour sauce, sort of like soba, and eat it with the pork. The dish provides for an eclectic taste and texture ― the fresh greens, soft and cold noodles, sour sauce and hot and sweet pork. Refills of the salad and vermicelli are available. It is available only for dinner.
A notable feature of the restaurant is that the dishes not only look good but serve a purpose. Everything came in dishes made of china or wood ― the owner says that they aim for fresh ingredients to be cooked and served on natural, nontoxic material.
Tang provided for a very clean-cut dining experience that would cater particularly to young women who pay heed to their waist line and for whom the decor and atmosphere matter, as well as busy corporate types looking for a simple yet quality meal. The down side is of course the fact that the use of quality ingredients ― even the pickles being finely fermented ― naturally drives up the price.
Near exit 4 of the Sinnonhyeon Station that will open soon. It is located by the Kyobo Bookstore building intersection, about 50 meters toward the Ritz-Carlton Hotel. The closest subway stations in the meantime are Gangnam on line 2 and Nonhyeon on line 7. Call (02) 554-0707.
hyowlee@koreatimes.co.kr
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한국과 일본 국가부도위험 비슷해졌다
