By Liam Scott
Contributing writer
For everyone living here in Korea who is able to afford a winter vacation, why not get away from the usual suspects at the usual winter vacation destinations? Why not instead get into winter in a European fashion? Prague is the splendid capital of the Czech Republic and of course a special place that anyone with a passport has to see, but just two hours heading west there is Karlovy Vary, a spa town in the historic central Europe region of Bohemia.
Now, in 2009, the Czech Republic has been handed its turn as the leader of the European Union and many who wish Europe well, and many, whether they are true bohemians or not, believe that this year has to be better than the last. So what can you do to get over the handover of last year and get into the spirit of this one? How about going to mysterious Karlovy Vary and taking ``the cure?''
Taking in the year-round beneficial waters during the cold gridlock of winter is working its way up the committed travelers' must-do list: running with the bulls in Spain; pub crawling in Dublin, Ireland; bicycling the Ho Chi Min Trail in Vietnam and, quite recently, temple stays in South Korea. And with rather dismal economic forecasts abounding, Karlovy Vary offers something unique and Bohemian to combat everyone's weariness.
For 650 years, the curative waters of Karlovy Vary have been sipped, bathed in, listened to and simply experienced. In the beginning, a hot geyser shooting 12-20 feet into the air was discovered in the 14th century by Czech King and Roman Emperor Charles IV. He bathed in the spring's pool and underwent his afflicted legs got better immediately. To be sure, it sounds like a royal urban legend, but back then, Balneology (the study of the therapeutic value of mineral waters) was well established.
There are 13 warm water mineral springs (magic fountains) in Karlovy Vary. Their temperatures range from 30 to 72 degrees Celsius. How does one benefit? Everyone walks around Karlovy Vary with easily purchased small drinking vases. You catch the water in one end of the vase and slowly drink it out the other. What's in the water? An alliance of natural minerals and curative salt combined with different levels of CO2. Who should take the cure? The different fountains are known to help alleviate symptoms of arthritis, diabetes, digestive problems and migraines. In fact, anyone who wants to improve their health can benefit from the salubrious waters.
In fact, Czech doctors often prescribe and Prague urbanites often escape for stays of varying length at Karlovy Vary. But it's not just about the mythical water. Taking the cure also entails drifting through a hodge-podge of Neo-baroque and Renaissance architecture. A certain elan comes with carrying a small ornate vase ― with your pinkie finger pointing outward, of course ― through 19th century colonnades where Beethoven and Goethe and scores of history-making Europeans sipped the hot water bubbling up through the ground. But don't be intimidated by the giants who came before. Whatever your budget is, you'll feel in the swim right away at Karlovy Vary. There is no cost to drink the water from any of the 13 healing fountains.
I appreciate the cure at the Park Colonnade the most. It's just 30 degrees Celsius, with a low concentration of minerals and a high level of CO2. This helps if you spent the night before drinking the local ― yet international ― alcoholic herbal cure, Becherovka, but more on that later. The Park Colonnade is also where the opening scene of Milos Foreman's film ``The Unbearable Lightness of Being'' was shot. Bohemian culture saturates the town as naturally as the minerals do the healing water.
``Being'' and ``well being'' are buzzwords for modern travel destinations, and Karlovy Vary is a destination that offers everything. Asian cultural influences are also in play, as Japanese and Thai messages are available and hotel cafes offer green tea brewed with the local water.
Luxe shopping is also available, and in a soft and comfortable way. It's less expensive than in Seoul, Prague or even Moscow (after all, this is Central Europe). And whether you feel most comfortable buying a goofy 007 Swatch or the same model Cartier that 007 Daniel Craig wore while filming a recent Bond Film here at the high stakes Grand Pupp Hotel, you can put on a bowler hat and find your own way to get into the classic aesthetics of Karlovy Vary.
It is comforting to know that the 150,000 non-Czechs who travel here each year come primarily for the water therapy, the bright clean air and sky and to embrace the local ambience that emperors, czars and artists experienced before them. Here's a sample from etiquette guides given to those taking ``the cure'' at Karlovy Vary:
1. The drinking cure should be taken when you feel fully relaxed and are not in a hurry.
2. The drinking cure is a small ceremony during which other clients must not be disturbed.
3. Mineral water cannot be used to water surrounding plants or be discharged onto the colonnade floor.
Lastly, a word to the wise on travel bookings to the Czech Republic: Korean Air has included Czech Airlines as part of its SkyTeam alliance to offer code sharing flights around the world while keeping Korean Air passengers highly satisfied with their 2007 and 2008 Best Airline in Asia award winning service.
Korean Air offers direct long-haul flights from Seoul to Prague and Prague to Seoul thrice weekly, on Mondays, Wednesdays and Saturdays.
The writer lives in Seoul and is working on a novel. He can be reached at slsseoul@yahoo.com