Train Travel Through Europe — When Every Cent Counts
By Alan Wissenberg
Contributing writer
Most visitors to my office in Munich are surprised that I publish a Korean newsletter. And the surprise only grows when I tell them I have an office in Seoul. When asked why, I tell them ``because every traveler I have met from Korea is good at math, and they can smell a bargain.'' This answer surprises Americans and Canadians; it should not surprise those of you living in Seoul, Busan or Gwangju.
At a time when the economies of the world are down, is it still possible to find a bargain for train travel through Europe? Of course, but the Korean method for planning train travel around Europe needs to consider even more information before the trip starts. Success starts with a good plan.
Let me share another thought that leads to success: ``The route between two (European) cities is not a straight line and the direction often matters.'' For overnight train travel to succeed (and save you money), you must know more before you decide on the correct reservation (and even the correct rail pass).
Most train travel books (in Korean and other languages) rely on standard train schedules that ignore several big changes each year. For example: it is now possible in 2009 to obtain a couchette from Zurich to Prague on two different trains. Train CNL 459 leaves Zurich at 7:44 p.m., passes through Germany and arrives the next morning in Prague at 10:52 a.m. Train EN 467 leaves Zurich at 10:40 p.m. and passes through Austria on its way to Prague (arrival at 11:41 a.m.).
Even when you have a Eurail Globalpass, it pays to know more about each train (and what direction) you take. Only one of the train routes offers direct seats, and the costs of couchettes (and the time involved) depend on the route. If you have a Eurail Selectpass, the trip can become very expensive for two different reasons: you need all the correct countries of travel (listed on your Selectpass) AND the same overnight trip in the opposite direction (from Prague to Zurich) requires two ``days'' on your Selectpass.
The EurAide staff in Seoul understands these problems and can make a schedule that works for you. Questions? Send them (in Korean or English) to me at
― please include your full name and cell phone number.
In the coming months, I will talk about ``planning for train travel'' in a regular series of articles. In late March, I am coming to Korea and will visit Seoul to answer questions in a free evening seminar (register to attend at www.worldrail.co.kr). I look forward to helping you and your friends have the best journey possible.
Planning for Train Travel through Europe
Rule 1
― ``The route between two (European) cities is not a straight line and the direction often matters.''
In 2009, one of the best overnight train routes from 2008 disappeared. The direct couchettes from Prague (departing at 5:14 p.m.) to Venice were cancelled and replaced with couchettes from Prague to Zagreb. Is it still possible to leave Prague and arrive in Venice after a good night's sleep? Yes, but only if you forget the information on the Internet and know a simple ``schedule trick.''
Most Web sites tell you to leave Prague (in a seat or a couchette) on train 207 at 5:14 p.m. and transfer trains in the town of Villach. Who wants to do that at 3:52 a.m.? To make things worse, the second train (EN 237 from Villach to Venice) requires a seat reservation that costs seven euros.
The solution uses the same route with a transfer much earlier. Leave Prague at 5:14 p.m. and use an unreserved seat to Salzburg (arrival at 12:14 a.m., Platform 4). Then change platforms and go to bed. The ``schedule trick'' is knowing that the direct couchette cars on train EN 237 leave Salzburg from Platform 2a at 1:34 a.m., but are ready for boarding in Salzburg at midnight. The train waits in Salzburg for over an hour, letting you start your eight-hour sleep. You pay 27 euros for reserving a couchette that brings you directly from Salzburg to Venice (arrival 8:34 a.m.). The early transfer in Villach disappears.
Overnight travel in the other direction does not work so well. Overnight train EN 236 leaves Venice (at 9:05 p.m.) with couchettes and seats to Salzburg (arrival 4:09 a.m.), but the transfer is very early (and you arrive in Prague at 11:41 a.m.).
The planning challenge is best overcome by Rule 2 ― ``Write down the places you want to see, then talk with an expert who understands train schedules'' because a well-planned train schedule saves LOTS of time and money.
Alan Wissenberg is the president of EurAide, Inc. He lives in Germany and will visit Seoul on March 26 to offer travelers a free evening seminar (register to attend at www.worldrail.co.kr).