Koreas Early Modern Architectural Heritage

By Robert Koehler

Chief Editor of SEOUL Magazine.

Although it doesn't get quite the attention it deserves in tourist guide books, early modern architecture is an important part of Korea's cultural heritage.

Cities such as Shanghai and Qingdao in China, Yokohama and Nagasaki in Japan and Singapore have long been famous for their handsome Western-style buildings, many dating from the early 20th century, the height of Western imperialism in Asia.

Visitors to Korean cities such as Seoul, Incheon, Mokpo and Gunsan will find a similarly rich architectural heritage, with cityscapes dotted with neo-Baroque banks, Rennaissance-style public offices and Romanesque churches.

It is only recently, however, that national and local authorities have begun taking an active interest in preserving and promoting old Western-style buildings.

Broadly speaking, ``early modern architecture'' is defined as (mostly) Western-style buildings dating from Korea's opening in the West at the end of the 19th century to the period immediately following the Korean War (1950-53).

As Korea spent a good deal of this period under Japanese colonial rule, many of the buildings dating from this period are regarded as ``colonial architecture,'' and share many similarities with colonial architecture in other former colonies and, unsurprisingly, with early Western-style architecture in Japan.

Nevertheless, it would be a mistake to call all of Korea's early modern architectural heritage colonial.

Some, such as the beautiful neo-Baroque clock tower of the old Daehan Medical Center (in front of Seoul National University Hospital in Daehangno), dates from the Daehan Empire period, when Korea made belated efforts to modernize with the assistance of Western and Japanese advisors.

Ecclesiastic architecture such as Seoul's Myeong-dong Cathedral, Seoul Anglican Cathedral and Chungdong First Methodist Church was often designed by Western missionaries and reflect the French, English and American styles of the missionaries' homelands.

Other buildings, such as the Main Hall of Jungang High School in Seoul's Bukchon neighborhood and the campus of Korea University, are products of Korea's first batch of architects trained in Western styles.

Nor is all early modern architecture ``Western'' ― in cities such as Incheon and Gunsan, for instance, visitors can find exotic examples of Chinese and Japanese architecture, a legacy of those towns' political and cultural histories. ``Modernized'' Korean-style homes from the '20s and '30s are also included.

Korea's early modern architectural heritage suffered greatly in the post-war era as Korea tore down much of the old to build the new. It was doubly disadvantaged by being associated with the hated colonial regime, with some calling for colonial-era buildings to be pulled down in order to ``liquidate relics of the colonial past.''

In recent years, however, the general trend has been toward greater conservation and appreciation. Since the 2001 adoption of the "Registered Cultural Property" system for early modern cultural heritage, some 320 properties have been listed (as of February 2007). Cities like Incheon and Pohang have invested in restoring and promoting historical neighborhoods, with Incheon going as far as to push for the rebuilding of Western buildings ― such as the old British consulate ― that have long-since disappeared.

Around the Nation

The following cities are good places to gain a better appreciation for Korea's early modern architectural heritage:

Seoul

The capital of Korea is home to some of Korea's most impressive pieces of early Western-style architecture, including Seoul City Hall, the beautiful neo-Baroque Seoul Station, the old Western legation quarter of Jeong-dong, the colonial-era buildings at the entrance of Myeong-dong (i.e, the old Bank of Korea building, Korea First Bank and Shinsegye Department Store), Myeongdong Cathedral and the grand Western-style buildings of Deoksugung Palace.

Incheon

Formerly known as Chemulpo, Incheon was Korea's first open port and home to its largest foreign concessions. Chinatown is home to many Chinese-style townhouses from the 1930s, while the Jung-gu district is home to many old Western and Japanese-style buildings, handsome Anglican and Catholic churches and a fascinating old Western club ― the Chemulpo Club ― dating from 1901.

Gunsan

The primary port of exit for vitally important Korean rice exports during the colonial era, Gunsan's old waterfront district is home to one of Korea's largest collections of colonial-era architecture, including a splendid old Western-style Customs House; a traditional wooden Japanese mansion (the Hirotsu House) and Dongguk-sa Temple, Korea's only remaining Japanese-style Buddhist temple that still serves as a Buddhist house of worship.

Mokpo

Like the other former open ports Masan and Busan, Mokpo has a large number of old colonial era buildings, including old banks, churches and a former office of the old Oriental Development Company (which played a similar role in Korea as the East India Company did in India).

Ganggyeong

Now part of Nonsan City in Chungcheongnam-do, this formerly important river port is like stepping back in time to the 1930s, and for that reason is sometimes used as a film set for historical dramas.

Other cities that deserve mention: Daegu, Busan and Pohang.