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| LAID BACK SUIT E. Tautz |
By Victoria Kim
It's summer now, but in line with fashion people preparing a season in advance, let's get ready for the upcoming season.
This article examines the trend for this fall/winter season introduced at the 2015 F/W Men's Collection that was held from February to March this year in London, Milan, Paris, and New York.
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| ARTISAN COAT Dries Van Noten | EXPLORER COAT Salvatore Ferragamo |
Inspired by luxurious tapestries, the artisan coat is next season's ultimate statement piece.
Reaching all the way to the knees, the fully patterned design incorporates internationalism while maintaining a subtle bit of whimsy.
Many of the styles are trimmed in fur or shearling for added comfort, and the wool is typically dense or double-faced.
EXPLORER COAT
A level of ruggedness dominated this year's F/W runways, with shearling being the must-have material. The explorer coat is lined in cozy, high-pile shearling (or a shearling-like fabric), or can be rendered completely in it. Utilitarian charm comes in via leather toggles, utility pockets, self-belts, or pieced construction. This is the updated version of the hyper-masculine aviator coats of the past.
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| CITY COAT N 21 | PLUSH PANTS Bottega Veneta |
The tailored overcoat was one of the essential items of the last two seasons, and for this season, it is casually updated to carry a guy from the office to a date (great over a suit or with jeans). The fit is looser and boxier, and it reaches to the mid-thigh. Fuzzy wool-mohair blends are key, as are camel hair and wool melt-on.
TAILORED PONCHO
After several seasons of blatant active influences, many designers presented a more tailored version of the poncho. Made from surprising materials such as wool, cashmere, or even techno knit, they are some of the most fashion-forward items for the season. Funnel necks, hoods, and convertible silhouettes are all important details.
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| TAILORED PONCHO Calvin Klein | TECHNO PARKA Lanvin |
The parka remains a must-have for all men's closets, but it became even more technical this season.
Slickly surfaced from lustrous materials such as nylon, satin, or high-shine mesh, they are baggier than previous seasons - mostly appropriate for sportswear. Two-toned contrast for the lining or hood keeps it fresh, while the patch-works carry the techno message.
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| SLOUCHY SWEATER Salvatore Ferragamo | TURTLENECK SWEATER Neil Barrett | FUZZY SWEATER Burberry Prorsum |
TURTLENECK SWEATER
After many years' waiting, the classic turtleneck sweater has reemerged as a knit option for the young men's markets. To add novelty, they have been designed with a slim silhouette, using marled yarns, intarsia motifs, and embossed techniques to create tonal shapes as an alternative to the Fair Isle pattern.
FUZZY SWEATER
This fall/winter season is all about coziness and luxurious comfort — elements that come in to classic crewneck sweaters. Wool-mohair blends, as well as shearling bodies and other high-pile woolens upgraded the sweatshirts that have been a must-have for several seasons. A slim and elongated body emphasizes the tactile-heavy fabrics.
SLOUCHY SWEATER
Slouchy and ultra-relaxed sweaters have come with a roomier fit than previous years. This style comes as a crewneck body with a stretched appearance and dropped shoulders. Bulky cable knits, rolled sleeves, raw seams, and even marled yarns call even more attention to the style. It is like a guy's favorite handed-down sweater that always keeps a place in his winter wardrobe.
PLUSH PANTS
Like the cozy sweaters, plush fabrics make classic pants anything but for the colder months. Chunky wide wale corduroy looks great on a tailored, tapered leg, while cotton velveteen and lustrous fur-like materials complete with elastic waists, pleated fronts and drawstring pulls work best for a fancy jogger.
LAID BACK SUIT
Most of the tailored clothing introduced at F/W runways maintained a relaxed, leisurely appearance. Even double-breasted jackets looked cool when worn open, or in a loose silhouette with baggy matching pants. Washed tweed, cotton sateen, silk, or even woolen blends all work because they look fluid and stress-free while creating a formal style.
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