Exploring a Seoul winter in the 1880s

Ice fishing on the Han River. Circa early 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

One of the first Americans to live in Korea was Percival Lowell who spent the winter of 1883/84 in Seoul as a guest of the Korean government. Probably best known for his work in astronomy, Lowell was also an excellent writer and his book ― "Chosen, the Land of the Morning Calm" ― provides a wonderful insight of his experience of Seoul during his stay.

One of the things he described in detail was winter. He vividly recalled that the temperature often dropped to -14 degrees Celsius and for days on end the temperature remained below freezing, made worse by a "keen north wind that feels as if it had come straight from the Siberian steppes…" The weather we have experienced over the past few days would have probably sent him into fits.

It is a shame he did not describe the snowy street scenes in much detail. Using other sources, we can imagine young men and older boys roaming the streets selling roasted chestnuts and other delectable treats to the crowds of people who gathered in the streets to watch kite battles taking place in the air.

Fishermen intent on catching their prey. Circa early 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

Fortunately, about four years later, another American did describe these young entrepreneurs:

"The loudest-mouthed and most enterprising persons in the whole city seem to be the vendors of the roasted chestnuts. They are little boys with their hair parted in the middle like girls and braided in one tightly woven cord down the back. Their stock usually consists of about a quart of chestnuts and they have a little pan of coal over which they roast them while you wait."

In the late 19th century, the river often froze for a couple of months ― all river transport ceased and goods had to be carried by oxen, ponies or men.

A brash young salesman with his wares. Circa early 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

A porter carrying his burden through the snow. Circa early 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

According to Lowell, "sleighs do not exist. In the matter of sleds there is certainly in the neighborhood of Soul, about the middle of the country, north and south, nothing but a certain kind in vogue among the fishermen on the ice, which they use to sit on while fishing, and on which afterwards they drag home the result of the day's work. As for skates, the idea is unknown. In fact, beyond the fishermen, above mentioned, the average Korean avoids venturing upon ice in winter as he would into water in summer. The frozen state seems to be just about as awe-inspiring to him as the liquid one is commonly elsewhere."

"We went out on to the piazza, and then I thought I should like to try the ice. So we descended to the river. The stream was solidly frozen over, and we got upon it without the least difficulty. The ice was covered with bands of fishermen, most of them in motion, each man armed with an implement for cutting holes, and each dragging a sled. This they sat down upon while they waited for bites. The contrivance was also designed undoubtedly to carry home the fish they might catch. While I watched them, they caught nothing. But this was ill luck, for from these fisheries are supplied the large quantities of fish which are daily eaten in the capital. From the numbers engaged in the pursuit, I should judge that it was the principal occupation of the villages which crowd the banks of this part of the Han River."

"The fishermen were fishing for what is known in Japan as koi. Underneath the ice is stretched a net. Then at intervals upon its surface are dug holes through the crust, and down these are let strings with bare hooks fastened to their ends. The fishers then start some distance behind the spot where the net is hung, with the series of holes between them and it, and begin to make a terrific noise upon the surface of the ice as they are capable of producing, gradually, as they do so, approaching the net. The terrified fish make off as fast as they can, but are unable to escape because of the net, and in their bewildered condition are caught upon the hooks as they rush heedlessly past. The hooks are formed of three barbs at right angles to one another. It is only in winter that these bare hooks are used; in summer the fishing is carried on with hooks that are baited. Enticement succeeds to repulsion; and in this pursuit, as in others, it is no doubt the more efficacious method of the two."

Of course, trekking across a frozen river was not without its dangers. All too frequently people misjudged the thickness of the ice and drowned after it gave way.

The river no longer freezes as often or as solidly as it did in the past. Some blame global warming while others note that the river is deeper than it was in the past. However, judging from the last couple of days, 2021 may bring us an image from the past ― a frozen Han River.

A lucky fisherman showing his catch. Circa early 1900s. Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection

Cutting ice on the Han River in the early 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

Households in the summer valued ice but in the winter, for the wives and mothers, ice was a terrible burden when it came to keeping the family's clothing clean and pressed. Circa early 1900s. Courtesy of Diane Nars Collection

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.

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