Sleepless in Seoul in 1901

Awaiting judgment, circa 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

By Robert Neff

For the foreign residents of Seoul, particularly in the Jeongdong area, a good night's sleep was a rare commodity in 1901.

Throughout the night, residents were incessantly attacked by ravenous bedbugs. This was not the first time, according to legend, that the city had been plagued with these insidious pests.

During the Imjin War (1592-1598), the royal palaces in Seoul were all destroyed, so the residence of a prince ― located in Jeongdong ― was converted and named Gyeongun Palace (now known as Deoksu Palace).

It was with the arrival of the royal family that a great host of bedbugs were awakened and infested the city until the monarchy took up residence at the newly rebuilt Changdeok Palace in 1618. Afterwards, according to Homer Hulbert, Jeongdong was known as "the den of bedbugs."

Gyeongun became a royal palace again when King Gojong moved into it in February 1897 and Hulbert insinuates this may have been the reason for the latest bedbug infestation. Hulbert had a flair for mixing legend with contemporary events.

But it wasn't just bedbugs robbing the residents of Seoul of their sleep ― it was the crime wave.

Prisoners in cangues, circa 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

As darkness fell, the streets of Seoul became a mugger's paradise. The Whang-sung Sin-mun reported that "there are many parts of the city where Koreans do not care to go at night, notably the cut near the Imperial Altar." These muggers, often armed with knives or guns, deprived their victims of their cash ― sometimes their clothing ― and, occasionally, their lives.

Measures were taken by the government. Night watchmen ― armed with bells to announce their approach ― were dispatched throughout the city and surrounding area but instead of becoming a deterrent, some became victims. In Dduksom, a band of robbers "caught the watchman and bound him and left him very scantily clad."

Bands of highwaymen also roamed outside the gates.

South of Seoul, a group of robbers disguised themselves by covering their faces with pun, a white paste that women use as a cosmetic. Because they were unidentifiable, they probably spared their victims.

Apparently, it wasn't uncommon for thieves to dress up as women. In October, "three thieves dressed in women's clothes" entered a residence and, after finding only women in the house, looted it.

Others, however, did not care who saw their faces because their victims were likely to end up dead. Near Mapo, a band of robbers looted and then torched some 30 houses. In September, a large "band of 100 robbers, more or less, armed with rifles and swords raided the market at Suwon and seized large quantities of goods."

Criminals executed by hanging, circa 1900s. Robert Neff Collection

According to the November edition of the Korea Review, "the growing boldness of Korean thieves has become quite a common topic of conversation among foreigners in Seoul." Like their Korean neighbors, the homes of foreigners were also being targeted.

The Methodist Publishing House was broken into and some valuables taken. Another missionary, James Scarth Gale, had his bicycle stolen from his residence. A young American guest at another missionary's house woke up in the middle of the night to see someone creeping through his window. The young man pretended to be asleep until he was sure of the intruder's motives ― his watch on a nearby chair ― and then sprang up and hit the thief.

The thief, completely demoralized by the sudden attack, rubbed his hands together in submission and a plea for mercy but the American "did not understand the gesture and gave him what is sometimes called a 'John L,' after which he called the host and the culprit was sent off to police headquarters escorted by two policemen." [John L. Sullivan was a famous American heavyweight boxer in the late 19th century].

Perhaps one of the most infamous thieves was Yi Chun-geun, whose depredations were estimated to be in the thousands of dollars. He was caught in November and, like many thieves, was dealt with harshly ― most likely by strangulation.

Crime wasn't the only thing keeping people awake at night ― as we shall see tomorrow.

Robert Neff has authored and co-authored several books including, Letters from Joseon, Korea Through Western Eyes and Brief Encounters.

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