From New Rich to dating culture, seismic social changes underway in North Korea

A North Korean traffic lady, who marshals vehicles at the intersections of North Korea's capital city, smiles in this photo taken by Japanese photographer Hatsuzawa Ari in 2016.

By Kang Hyun-kyung

Japanese photographer Hatsuzawa Ari, who has been photographing North Korean citizens since 2011, realized rapid social change has been underway since Kim Jong-un ascended to power following his father Kim Jong-il's death in December 2011.

Hatsuzawa, 45, said he was overwhelmed by the pace of social change in the "Hermit Kingdom," which he said was so drastic he almost felt "dizzy."

According to him, the breeze of change was first felt at the airport in Beijing in December 2016 when he transferred to the Air Koryo flight heading to Pyongyang. There, he was struck by the looks of the North Korean passengers.

Back in 2012, the Japanese photographer said passengers aboard the North Korean airplane were predominantly men wearing shabby military uniforms and the in-flight atmosphere was tense.

In December 2016, however, a pair of wealthy women, who he figured were mother and daughter, were spotted on the plane, making him believe they were the "New Rich" who have emerged in North Korea after the market was introduced there in the wake of the Great Famine of the mid-1990s and thrived after the 2000s following the stoppage of rations.

The North Korean flight attendants were relaxed. Previously, the Japanese photographer said, they were nervous and stiff with no smiles on their faces. They used to come to him whenever he touched his camera and told him in a forceful manner, "No photo, please."

But such threatening in-flight atmosphere is a thing of the past.

Crew members didn't care much when the two ladies stood near the window of the airplane after the plane took off and chatted for almost half an hour. The crew didn't deter Hatsuzawa, either, when he captured the North Korean ladies with his camera _ a change he said was unthinkable four years ago.

"In the past, there were no passengers who spoke on the airplane. Even though there were passengers chatting, flight attendants would stop them from talking," he said. "What a change!"

His visit to North Korea in 2016, four years after his previous visit, was full of surprises and another unexpected experience waited for Hatsuzawa after he arrived in the capital of North Korea.

Central Pyongyang had undergone a facelift.

"Compared to 2012, traffic had tripled with 1,500 brand new, domestically manufactured vehicles on the road," he said.

Japanese photographer Hatsuzawa Ari

The way traffic ladies marshaled traffic at the intersections of the capital city also surprised the Japanese photographer.

He said an unnamed North Korean traffic lady in uniform posed for him with a big smile on her face when he took a photo of her.

"In the past, whenever I tried to capture them with my camera, they made a face and some complained to my North Korean guide about my attempt," he said. "I never imagined a North Korean traffic lady would pose for me with a smile on her face. This was something unthinkable when Kim Jong-il was in power."

Last week, Hatsuzawa released a photo collection compiled in a book titled "Neighbors," featuring North Koreans he had photographed in Pyongyang, Sinuju, Hoeryong and other major North Korean cities during his many visits to the country.

The North Korean traffic lady wearing a white uniform with blue skirt is one of the photos he selected for the Korean edition of his photo collection.
In North Korea, dating culture has been changing and young people have become bold in expressing their emotions toward their love interests.

A young North Korean couple whisper about love at an outdoor restaurant in Pyongyang in this undated photo. / Courtesy of Hatsuzawa Ari

In Pyongyang, Hatsuzawa said, scenes of young men and women sitting closely next to each other and whispering love are easily spotted in public spaces such as restaurants. Some men and women take selfies, putting their arms over each other's shoulder. "I have never seen anything like that when I visited the North when Kim Jong-il was in power," he said.

Kim Young-hee, a North Korean defector and a research fellow at Korea Development Bank, pointed her finger at North Korean leader Kim Jong-un as a source from where the open dating culture has stemmed.

"He disclosed his marriage and appeared on TV holding hands with his wife, Ri Sol-ju. In a democratic country, a scene like that is common. But in North Korea, it is a huge change," she said.

She said Kim Jong-un has a different leadership style from his father Kim Jong-il and the younger Kim openly going out with his spouse is part of his leadership style.

"During his days, Kim Jong-il was dignified and worshipped by North Koreans. Ordinary North Koreans didn't know whether he had a wife or not," she said.
Ri Sol-ju accompanying her husband in public also has another implication for the younger North Koreans. "This could have affected dating culture among young North Koreans. The way Ri behaves in the public eye and her fashion and everything about her affects young North Koreans. In North Korea, fads come from political leaders rather than from celebrities," said Kim.

'Paradox of sanctions'

Citing sources, Hatsuzawa said the wind of social change in North Korea began in 2013, two years after Kim Jong-un took power.

Unlike the older Kim who ruled the nation based on strict political ideology, the Japanese man said the younger Kim's ruling style is more people-oriented.

Mentioning his experience visiting the eastern coastal city of Wonsan in 2012, Hatsuzawa said North Koreans seem to feel intimate with the younger Kim.

"It was three days before I returned home and four of us _ a driver and two North Korean guides _ were watching TV while eating at a restaurant in Wonsan. The TV footage showed North Korean leader Kim Jong-un paying a visit somewhere and it continued for almost 30 minutes," he said. "Holding chopsticks and a cup of tea in his hands, our driver watched TV and was almost drawn into what he saw on TV with a big smile on his face. His facial expression was like a daddy who is watching his proud son. Before watching the TV footage, he was grim-faced."

Based on his conversation with North Koreans, Hatsuzawa observed that social change underway in North Korea is a reflection of Kim Jong-un's people-first policy focus and noted it began bearing fruit as he witnessed improvements in the living standards of North Koreans over the years.

Kim said "the paradox of sanctions" has played a part in improving North Koreans' livelihoods during the Kim Jong-un era.

"Due to the layered sanctions, North Korea is unable to export coal and fishery products. Quality coal is used for power plants to produce electricity and this consequently helps North Korea ease its notorious power outages. Due to the forced export ban on fishery products, North Koreans are able to enjoy fish at cheaper prices," she said.

Unlike his father who mainly focused on strengthening North Korea's military capabilities, she said the younger Kim is pragmatic and prioritizes the livelihood of the public, emphasizing bread and butter issues equally with military strength.