By Pyo Kyung-min
Edward Lee, a Korean American celebrity chef who is better known in Korea for preparing the state dinner at the White House for President Yoon Suk Yeol in April, believes that Korean food in the United States is at its peak right now.
However, the Brooklyn native has found subtle yet significant changes occurring in how Americans enjoy Korean flavors ― a phenomenon he describes as a renaissance of Korean food.
"It has captured the taste buds of Americans, and it has found its way into so many American food menus," Lee said in an interview with The Korea Times last month.
"Korean food has entered a phase in America where it's not just about the traditional dishes, like 'kimchi jjigae' or 'doenjang jjigae,' but it's how we interpret it into how it looks and feels Korean," he added.
The changes, according to Lee, are also apparent at his new restaurant ― Nami Modern Korean Steakhouse ― in Louisville, Kentucky.
Its dishes are based on traditional Korean flavors but with a more modern touch, Lee said.
"Customer favorites are the tuna tartare served with 'gochujang' (red pepper paste) vinaigrette. The traditional flavors of 'jang,' are what the diners love so much," he added.
"Jang" refers to traditional Korean condiments, which are fermented pastes made with soybeans or red pepper.
"Korean food has been popular for so long, and what's new in America is the fermented flavor, its richness, and how it adds a layer to the flavor overall," he added.
Combining jang with modern cuisines has been one of Lee's keenest interests. Jang's unique umami flavor is what Lee focuses on to give his dishes a Korean hint.
The dessert he came up with at the state dinner was also one of his creations. The caramel sauce drizzled on top of the banana split was combined with "doenjang" (soybean paste) for a salty tang to complement the sweetness.
Lee feels that the most important thing in combining Korean and American flavors is harmonization.
"I think it's important that the flavors don't compete with each other. So sometimes a dish will have a more Korean flavor with a little bit of American flavor, and other times there will be American dishes with a bit of Korean flavor, but it's hard to do 50/50, there is never an equal balance," he said.
"So what matters is how the Korean flavor enhances the American dish, or how a Korean dish can benefit from an American flavor."
During the state dinner, Lee was happy to successfully deliver his message through his dishes as his main goal was to honor the friendship between the two nations through the menus as a Korean American.
"I wanted to show that Korean ingredients can merge very easily and harmoniously with American cuisine just as Koreans have become integrated into American society," he said.
"The president of South Korea said the braised beef reminded him of a dish his mother used to cook for him. That was an incredible honor for me."
Edward Lee, a Korean American celebrity chef who is better known in Korea for preparing the state dinner at the White House for President Yoon Suk Yeol in April, believes that Korean food in the United States is at its peak right now.
 |
| Chef Edward Lee / Courtesy of Edward Lee |
"It has captured the taste buds of Americans, and it has found its way into so many American food menus," Lee said in an interview with The Korea Times last month.
"Korean food has entered a phase in America where it's not just about the traditional dishes, like 'kimchi jjigae' or 'doenjang jjigae,' but it's how we interpret it into how it looks and feels Korean," he added.
The changes, according to Lee, are also apparent at his new restaurant ― Nami Modern Korean Steakhouse ― in Louisville, Kentucky.
Its dishes are based on traditional Korean flavors but with a more modern touch, Lee said.
"Customer favorites are the tuna tartare served with 'gochujang' (red pepper paste) vinaigrette. The traditional flavors of 'jang,' are what the diners love so much," he added.
"Jang" refers to traditional Korean condiments, which are fermented pastes made with soybeans or red pepper.
"Korean food has been popular for so long, and what's new in America is the fermented flavor, its richness, and how it adds a layer to the flavor overall," he added.
Combining jang with modern cuisines has been one of Lee's keenest interests. Jang's unique umami flavor is what Lee focuses on to give his dishes a Korean hint.
 |
| Guest chef Edward Lee's banana split with "doenjang" (soybean paste) caramel is displayed ahead of a state dinner at the White House in Washington, D.C., April 24 (local time). Yonhap |
The dessert he came up with at the state dinner was also one of his creations. The caramel sauce drizzled on top of the banana split was combined with "doenjang" (soybean paste) for a salty tang to complement the sweetness.
Lee feels that the most important thing in combining Korean and American flavors is harmonization.
"I think it's important that the flavors don't compete with each other. So sometimes a dish will have a more Korean flavor with a little bit of American flavor, and other times there will be American dishes with a bit of Korean flavor, but it's hard to do 50/50, there is never an equal balance," he said.
"So what matters is how the Korean flavor enhances the American dish, or how a Korean dish can benefit from an American flavor."
 |
| Chef Edward Lee, center, introduces menu items to be served at the state dinner for Korean President Yoon Suk Yeol at the White House in Washington, D.C., April 24 (local time). AP-Yonhap |
During the state dinner, Lee was happy to successfully deliver his message through his dishes as his main goal was to honor the friendship between the two nations through the menus as a Korean American.
"I wanted to show that Korean ingredients can merge very easily and harmoniously with American cuisine just as Koreans have become integrated into American society," he said.
"The president of South Korea said the braised beef reminded him of a dish his mother used to cook for him. That was an incredible honor for me."
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